Trip Date: July 19-20, 2008
Icy Peak Climbing Trip & Ruth Mountain Summit Camp
Hannegan Pass
Ruth Mountain (7115′)
Ruth–Icy Saddle
Icy Peaks: true summit aka Southeast Icy Peak (7073′)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Nooksack Mountains
Area: North Cascades National Park
Starting & Ending Point: Hannegan Trailhead at end of Ruth Creek Road (Elev. 3100 feet)
Way Points: Ruth Creek & Hannegan Pass & Ruth Mountain Saddle & Ruth Mountain summit (trail hike & snow climb)
Campsite: Ruth Mountain summit (Elev. 7100 feet)
Summit: Ruth Mountain (snow climb via North Ridge—Ruth Glacier; descent via South Ridge )
Sidetrip: Ruth Bowl & Ruth–Icy Saddle (rock scramble)
Summit: Southeast Icy Peak (snow climb & rock climb via Icy Glacier—Northwest Ridge)
Approximate Stats: 16 miles traveled; 8000 feet gained & lost.
Related Post
Ruth Mtn Climb & Ski Descent via North Ridge—Ruth Glacier – June 14, 1997
Full Trip Report
Eileen and I did a splendid trip last weekend in the Nooksack Mountains, as we managed to tuck in Ruth Mountain and SE Icy Peak. Although the maps label the latter mountain as “Icy Peak,” it really should be called “Icy Peaks” because it comprises a cluster of attractive summit crags, the two highest of which have an elevation difference of only 11 feet or so. The overall effect of these dark crags jutting from the sprawling snowfields is reminiscent of climbing Mt Challenger from Wiley Ridge—but on a smaller scale, without the long approach, thick brush, and militant hornets. I suppose you can’t have everything.
Day 1: Trailhead to Ruth Mountain Summit
We hiked up to Hannegan Pass, then continued on scratch paths and snow to the summit of Ruth Mtn. I’d long wanted to camp on the summit of this wonderful view summit, so that’s exactly what we did…along with four other people.
- Heading Up Ruth Mountain
- Icy Peaks From Ruth Mountain
The night was clear and windless and well-illuminated by a full moon. Hard to believe these lodgings were actually free, although room service was spotty.
- Campers On Ruth Mountain Summit
- Mt Sefrit & Tomyhoi Peak at Sunset
Day 2: Southeast Icy Peak Summit Climb & Exit
The next morning, we awoke to a beautifully clear sky and a setting moon.
- Moon setting over Mount Skuksan
We packed up and headed over to Icy Peaks by first descending Ruth Mtn’s south ridge. We cached some gear In a flat snow basin below, then continued descending Class 2 rock and heather to the Ruth-Icy Saddle. From there, we cramponed up firm snow toward Icy Peaks.
- Ascending Toward Icy Peaks
A party of nine climbers was whittling away at the NW peak when we arrived at the summit area. But no matter, because our goal was the slightly higher SE peak (true summit).
- Looking Down NW Ridge
We climbed steep snow to the NW–SE notch, and that’s where things got more interesting. The route up the SE peak’s NW ridge looked to be steep, loose, wildly exposed, and generally unfeasible. Frankly, if not for us having a trip report from Fay Pullen’s prior ascent of this route, we probably wouldn’t have even bothered trying. In reality, the route turned out to be steep, loose, wildly exposed…but very feasible. The best part was the Class 4 knife-edge summit ridge.
- NW Peak From SE Peak
We spent over an hour on top (4.7 hours from Ruth Mtn summit), admiring the North Cascades and watching with curiosity the party of nine on the NW summit. A summit register that Fay had left here several years ago showed about one party per year on average, confirming Beckey’s statement that this peak is seldom climbed.
- Ruth Mountain and Eileen On Summit
- Jim on the Summit of SE Icy Peak
For our descent, we belayed back down the ridge, using a short (75-foot) rope. Once down to the snow, we briefly considered climbing the lower but more popular NW peak. Somehow, though, it seemed to lack the drama of the other peak, so we elected to head for home instead.
Route Map
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
