Originally Posted: May 2024
Black Diamond Momentum 4S Harness
Edelrid Mega Jul Belay/Rappel Device
La Sportiva TX Guide Leather Shoes
Fjallraven Abisko Climbing Shorts
General Comments
As an old-school and fairly casual crag climber, my focus is on doing fun sport routes and easy trad routes rather than on pushing harder grades and taking big whippers. Having been a mountaineer and alpine climber for most of my life, I also emphasize comfort, simplicity, and practicality over high-end performance and complexity. The following reviews cover a few items of crag climbing gear that I have come to like in the context of my chosen activities.
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Affiliate Disclosure: My gear reviews may contain affiliate links, which means that if you purchase something that I’ve linked to, I might get a small commission at no additional cost to you. Be assured, though, that my reviews are unbiased and involve only gear that I (or a mountain partner) have used extensively. For all items, I discuss the cons as well as the pros.
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Gear Review Summaries
BD Momentum 4S Harness Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Good combination of comfort, versatility, lightweight, and features.
- Double buckles on waist belt allow tie-in loops and gear loops to be perfectly centered on different body sizes or with different clothing thicknesses.
- Buckles on leg loops accommodate a wide range of thigh sizes and clothing thicknesses.
- Molded plastic gear loops are easy to access.
- Small sewn pocket on each leg loop is handy for clipping an autoblock or rope bight.
Cons:
- Slightly heavier than single-buckle harnesses with no leg loop buckles.
- Elastic keeper straps on leg loops are difficult to unfasten and refasten without help.
Bottom Line: An excellent all-around crag climbing harness for people who don’t happen to fit the available sizes of a single-buckle harness and/or for people who wear a wide range of clothing thicknesses.
Product Link: Black Diamond Momentum 4S harness
Similar Products & Links:
Black Diamond Momentum harness (a slightly lighter single-buckle version of the Momentum 4S, suitable for people who fit one of the available sizes).
Petzl Corax harness (a four-buckle harness that provides essentially the same function as the Momentum 4S).
Mammut 4 Slide harness (a four-buckle harness that provides essentially the same function as the Momentum 4S).
Metolius Patriot One harness (a four-buckle harness that provides essentially the same function as the Momentum 4S).
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Edelrid Mega Jul Belay/Rappel Device Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Simple dual-purpose device with no moving parts.
- Steel construction results in good durability and compact size.
- Brake-assisted belaying function greatly increases climber safety.
- Provides “guide mode” belaying of two following climbers.
- Can function as a brake-assisted rappel device to eliminate need for an autoblock.
Cons:
- Requires considerable practice and a delicate touch to feed out rope quickly and smoothly.
- More sensitive to rope size, rope condition, and carabiner type than some other devices.
- Thin wall thickness creates sharper bends in rope compared to aluminum devices.
- Brake-assisted rappelling mode does not work well for many climbers.
Bottom Line: A simple, durable, and compact option for a crag climber or alpine climber who prefers a dual-purpose belay/rappel device with the added safety of assisted braking.
Product Link: Edelrid Mega Jul belay/rappel device
Similar Products & Links:
Edelrid Giga Jul belay/rappel device (a slightly heavier and more-complicated device with the ability to switch between brake-assisted and non-assisted belaying modes).
Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay/rappel device (a simple and compact device that provides assisted braking only for following climbers when used in guide mode).
Black Diamond ATC-XP belay/rappel device (a simple and compact device that provides more friction than a standard ATC but does not provide any assisted braking functions).
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La Sportiva TX Guide Leather Shoe Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Sole provides good combination of friction on rock and traction on trails.
- Snug shape and ankle-to-toe lacing provides good edging performance on rock.
- Leather upper provides more durability than mesh or fabric uppers.
Cons:
- Snug shape might be uncomfortable for some feet on long approaches.
- Leather upper is slightly heavier and less breathable than some mesh or fabric uppers.
Bottom Line: An excellent rock shoe for people who prioritize comfort over performance and/or want a single shoe for approaches and climbs.
Product Link: La Sportiva TX Guide Leather shoes
Similar Products & Links:
La Sportiva TX4 Evo shoes (similar to the TX Guide but probably more focused on trails than rock).
Asolo Eldo LTH-GV shoes (a lighter shoe than the La Sportiva TX Guide Leather but probably with less durability and rock performance).
Scarpa Crux II shoes (an old and near-legendary approach shoe that probably lacks the rock performance of many newer models but is still very popular)
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Fjallraven Abisko Climbing Shorts Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Main fabric is durable and slightly stretchy.
- Tougher seat fabric helps resist rock abrasion.
- Hip pockets are large, with zippered closures to prevent accidental loss of contents.
- Dual cargo pockets hold cell phone, wallet, maps, guidebook pages, and other flat items.
- All pockets are easily accessible when wearing a climbing harness.
Cons:
- Dedicated cell phone pocket is too small for many newer, larger phones.
Bottom Line: A burly short with many features that are conducive to crag climbing use.
Product Link: Fjallraven Abisko shorts
Similar Products & Links:
Fjallraven Abisko Midsummer shorts (a slightly modified version of the original Abisko shorts, and possibly serving as a replacement).
Fjallraven Keb shorts (very similar to the Abisko shorts, including tougher seat fabric and dual cargo pockets).
Kuhl Renegade Cargo shorts (a high-quality short with durable fabric and dual cargo pockets)
Prana Stretch Zion shorts (a popular short with stretchy fabric but only one cargo pocket).
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Full Gear Reviews
BD Momentum 4S Harness Review
Like many climbers, I have found that my physique lies between the available sizes of certain brands or models of harnesses. As a result, when the tie-in loops are centered on my torso, the gear loops are asymmetrical; that is, the loops on one side are shifted farther forward than the gear loops on the other side. This annoying problem became very apparent when I decided to replace my old Black Diamond Momentum harness. After trying on the new standard (single-buckle) Momentum, I found that I was a bit too big for the medium size but a bit too small for the large size.
What a pleasant surprise it was to discover that BD is now offering a harness called the Momentum 4S, which has two buckles on the hip belt and two buckles on the leg loops. This new model comes in three sizes that purportedly cover waist circumferences ranging from 22 to 42 inches. Black Diamond’s sizing chart indicates that my 32-inch waist would fit both the XS/M size and the L/XL size, but after trying them on, it became obvious that the L/XL size was my best choice. This leaves me to wonder whether large-waisted climbers can get a satisfactory fit. Well, at least I found a good fit for myself, such that I can perfectly center the tie-in loops and the gear loops. I immediately added my DIY personal tethers to the tie-in loops.
The Momentum 4S harness has all of the top-notch attributes of the standard (single-buckle) Momentum. All buckles are permanently threaded for both safety and convenience. The waist belt and leg loops are fairly wide and nicely padded for comfort when performing semi-hanging belays and free-hanging rappels. All inner surfaces consist of a soft, breathable fabric. The four gear loops have heat-molded plastic stiffeners to make clipping and unclipping easier. There is a small haul loop in back, to which I clip a “leaver biner” and emergency prusik sling. The only complaint I have is that the elastic keeper straps on the back of the leg loops are attached with a tiny “G” buckle, which is difficult to fasten and unfasten without assistance; the old quick-release buckle was far easier to use.
An unexpected bonus feature of the 4S harness is that the stitching on each leg loop creates a handy little pocket for clipping a carabiner into . I have always preferred to clip my autoblock sling onto one of my leg loops when rappelling, but the carabiner has a tendency to slide around a bit. Also, when cleaning a top-rope anchor in preparation for a final lowering or a rappel, I have always preferred to temporarily clip my bight of rope onto a leg loop, because this feels much safer to me than clipping my bight onto a gear loop, and it is more convenient than clipping into my belay loop. With the 4S, I now have a perfectly located carabiner pocket on each leg loop. Admittedly, BD did not design the harness for these specific purposes, but considering that the pockets are formed by high-strength stitching in structural webbing, I regard such uses to be fully appropriate.
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Edelrid Mega Jul Belay/Rappel Device Review
I started crag climbing in the 1970s, when the old-fashioned hip belay was being supplanted by belay devices, such as the Salewa Sticht plate. A decade or so later, Black Diamond introduced the ATC, which provided smooth belaying and rappelling functions into a single compact device. That was followed by two enhanced ATC versions: the ATC-XP, which offered additional friction for smaller ropes, and the ATC-Guide, which allowed for a leader to belay one or two followers with the added benefit of assisted braking. Nowadays, there are numerous devices designed for belaying-only or for both belaying and rappelling.
For many years, I have used a BD ATC for crag climbing because it works so smoothly with thick crag ropes, which generally range from 9.5 mm to 10.5 mm. I have also used a BD ATC-XP for alpine climbing because it accommodates the wide variety of my mountaineering ropes, which range from 7 mm glacier ropes to 9 mm rock ropes. I still prefer the ATC-XP for alpine climbing, due to its simplicity and versatility. However, for crag climbing, I recently decided it was time to switch to a belay/rappel device that offers the added safety of assisted braking. After researching several options, I purchased an Edelrid Mega Jul. The following comments are based on my five or six days of use thus far, so they constitute only a preliminary review; as such, I will update this review after I have a chance to use the device more times.
My first day of belaying with the Mega Jul was a bit rough because its operation is not as intuitively obvious as an ATC. Pulling in rope for a top-rope climber is easy enough, but it took me some time to get accustomed to feeding out rope for a lead climber. The thumb loop requires a quick motion to unlock the device and feed out rope when the climber is clipping a bolt or making a sudden upward move. Let me say that I received some sharp reprimands from my lead climber when I couldn’t act fast enough! After several days, though, I gradually got the hang of it, such that negative comments are now far less frequent.
Lowering climbers with the Mega Jul has also been a shaky activity. When “taking” a climber, the device automatically locks up, per design. Then, to begin lowering, it it necessary to give an upward tug, which suddenly releases the device and gives the climber a small but unexpected drop. This also tends to elicit a harsh response from the climber. Once the lowering is underway, I found it difficult to located the “sweet spot” that gives a smooth, uniform descent. With use, I have been able to improve my technique, but lowerings inherently require a delicate hand motion and precise hand position that will require more practice.
Rappelling with a Mega Jul in “standard mode” is pretty intuitive and operates in the same manner as an ATC. The only difference is that the Mega Jul does not seem to be quite as smooth as an ATC. A nice aspect of the Mega Jul is that it provides the option of a brake-assisted rappel by reversing the direction of the rope. Because I typically use an autoblock when rappelling, I haven’t had a reason to use the device in brake-assist mode. However, many other users have reported that it results in a very jerky rappel and that the need to continuously pull upward on the device becomes very tiring if making a long rappel. It’s unfortunate that the device does not offer a smooth brake-assisted rappel for all users, as this would be a great safety feature. Nonetheless, I do appreciate having the option in the rare event that I forget to bring my autoblock or accidentally drop it off a cliff.
Aside from the learning curve involved with the Mega Jul, my main complaints are that it seems to lack the smoothness of an ATC when lowering or rappelling, even though I use a large round-stock carabiner as recommended by Edelrid. I suspect that the reason for this lies in the device’s steel construction, which allows Edelrid to use relatively thin walls. These thin walls result in the brake-side rope making a relatively sharp bend. In contrast, the ATC’s aluminum construction requires thicker walls, which results in a slightly gentler rope bend and a smoother motion. This is not a serious problem, but I do wonder how the Mega Jul might behave differently if constructed from aluminum rather than steel.
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La Sportiva TX Guide Leather Shoe Review
Because I emphasize comfort and practicality over performance, I do all of my crag climbing in approach shoes. This tactic allows me to spend all day climbing, belaying, rappelling, and walking around the crags without ever changing my shoes—or getting purple toenails. Obviously, I can’t obtain the performance benefits of a true rock shoe, but I rarely try to climb anything that requires a true rock shoe. Although many climbers would undoubtedly find such a tactic to be unacceptable, I’ve noticed many mountain guides wearing approach shoes on easy to moderate rock routes.
For at least 10 years, I climbed in Five Ten Guide Tennies. These shoes were hugely popular due to their Stealth rubber soles and durable leather uppers. Sadly, they fell out of production after Adidas bought the Five Ten company. When my trusty old Guide Tennies recently wore out, I replaced them with a pair of La Sportiva TX Guide Leather shoes. After a dozen days of crag climbing in these new shoes—on a combination of PoCho limestone, Red Rock sandstone, and Leavenworth granite—I can give them an enthusiastic thumbs up!
Five Ten Guide Tennies excelled on friction slabs, but I believe that the La Sportiva TX Guides are a bit better for edging. In jam crags, I would judge the two models to be equivalent, thanks to a generous rubber rand. Both models also feature an ankle-to-toe lacing design inspired by true rock shoes, so it is possible to achieve a very snug fit. For long approaches, whether on good trails or rough paths, the TX Guides excel due to their knobby sole and heel. I can’t yet comment on the durability of TX Guides, but I expect their leather uppers to last for many years.
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Fjallraven Abisko Climbing Shorts Review
Compared to other climbing gear, shorts don’t get much attention despite their obvious importance in terms of function and decency. Over many decades of crag climbing, I never really gave them a lot of thought until recently, after purchasing a pair of Fjallraven Abisko shorts. The materials and features built into these shorts are so well-suited to crag climbing that I couldn’t help but take notice.
Abisko shorts are constructed with two different fabrics. The majority of the short consists of a stretchy polyamide/polyester blend, which provides good durability and good mobility. The seat consists of a non-stretchy polyester/cotton blend for increased durability. After three seasons of crag climbing, I haven’t managed to tear or abrade either fabric. The overall fit is relaxed without being too baggy, and the length conforms to contemporary fashion. Because I hate having my shorts ride down over the course of a day, I’m pleased that these have belt loops, which I use in conjunction with an Arcade slim belt (the belt loops are slightly small for a standard-width Arcade belt, which is fully reviewed here).
The pockets on my Abisko shorts are what really nabbed my attention. There are two hip pockets and two cargo pockets—all of which are readily accessible when wearing a harness. The hip pockets are very large (almost cavernous) and have zipper closures, so they will securely hold a variety of essentials. The right leg has a large cargo pocket with a snap closure; I use this for my wallet, crag knife, and photocopies of guidebook pages. The left leg has a smaller cargo pocket (also with a snap closure) designed to hold a cell phone.
I was particularly delighted with the dedicated cell phone pocket, because I always carry my cell phone on routes so that I can take photos. However, when I upgraded from an iPhone 7 to an iPhone 12, I discovered that my new phone was slightly too long for the pocket. Clearly, Fjallraven clothing designers were behind the technology curve in this department. My solution for this shortcoming was to carefully remove the pocket closure flap and sew it back on with a strip of extension fabric (shown in photo below). The result has proven to be very functional if not elegant. Hopefully, my pocket extension is long enough to accommodate several more versions of the iPhone.
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