Trip Date: May 28-30, 2019
Little Tahoma Peak Climbing Trip
Fryingpan Creek
Summer Land aka Summerland
Fryingpan Glacier
Whitman Crest
Little Tahoma Peak (11,138′)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Southern Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Mt. Rainier Massif
Area: Mt. Rainier National Park
Starting & Ending Point: Fryingpan Creek Trailhead on Sunrise Road (Elev. 3800 feet)
Way Points: Fryingpan Creek footlog & Summer Land & Meany Snowfield outcrop (trail hike & snow hike & snow climb)
Campsite: Meany Snowfield outcrop (Elev. 6600 feet)
Summit: Little Tahoma Peak (snow climb & rock scramble via Fryingpan Glacier—Whitman Notch—Whitman Glacier—East Ridge)
Approximate Stats: 14 miles traveled; 7600 feet gained & lost.
Related Posts
Little Tahoma Peak via Fryingpan Glacier – May 2023
Little Tahoma Peak via Fryingpan Glacier – June 2001
Full Trip Report
Eileen had been wanting to climb Little Tahoma Peak this year, so we jumped at the opportunity when a mid-week window of good weather appeared. The weather window turned out to be much smaller than expected—more of a weather porthole, really—but we managed to tuck in the summit as part of an impromptu “Can-Am Goodwill Climb.”
Day 1: Trailhead to Meany Snowfield Outcrop
We left the Fryingpan Creek Trailhead shortly after noon and hiked toward Summer Land. The trail was mostly bare for the first 2 miles, then mostly snow-covered thereafter. We took a long break in the sun at the Fryingpan Creek footlog (2.2 hours + 1400 feet from TH).
- Fryingpan Creek Footlog & Spring Route
We proceeded along the southern side of Fryingpan Creek, following the “Spring Route” up to Summer Land. Due to soft snow conditions, snowshoes were quite welcome here.
- Eileen Snowshoeing Up Spring Route
In order to gain a higher camp, we passed by Summer Land and continued up the steeper slopes of the Meany Snowfield.
- Eileen Booting Up Meany Snowfield
A small rock outcrop at 6600 feet provided us with a convenient and semi-sheltered tent site on Meany Bench (5.4 hours + 2800 feet from TH).
- High Camp On Meany Bench
- High Camp On Meany Bench
The afternoon had begun with sun and warm air but then deteriorated to a watery sky and chilly wind by evening. Although this was not the weather we expected, it did provide for nice lighting conditions.
- Watery Sun From High Camp
- Evening Color From High Camp
Day 2: Little Tahoma Peak Summit Climb
Following a cold and windy night, we awoke to clearing skies and the promise of a bluebird day.
- Morning Sun On Little Tahoma & Mt Rainier
We loaded summit packs with snowshoes, crampons, and glacier gear, then headed up to Meany Crest.
- Climbing Up To Meany Crest
Our climbing route took us over Meany Crest and along the southeastern flank of the Fryingpan Glacier. Snow conditions were initially favorable for booting but became gradually softer, prompting us to don snowshoes around 8000 feet.
- Booting Toward Whitman Notch
Whitman Notch was visible directly ahead, and we gained the notch in late morning (3.6 hours + 2500 feet from camp).
- Final Climb To Whitman Notch
A pair of climbers had been following our footsteps up the glacier, and they caught up to us shortly after we reached the notch. Eileen and I chatted at length with these new arrivals—Marcus and Ryan—and learned that they are both EMTs from Toronto. Marcus has been making twice-yearly trips to the Cascades and other western mountain ranges for many years, whereas this was Ryan’s first foray into the area. Important fact: Marcus has a cat named Fred Beckey.
- Whitman Glacier From Whitman Notch
Our newly formed “Can-Am Team” worked together to break trail across and up the Whitman Glacier. Post-holing through the deep, mushy snow was arduous and slow, but we eventually reached a high saddle overlooking Mt. Rainier.
- Ascending Lower Whitman Glacier
- Mt Rainier From Little Tahoma Peak Saddle
From the high saddle, we proceeded up a steep snowfinger to the far right, just below the vertical cliffs of the east ridge. This snowfinger ended at a talus rib with a small snowpatch on the other side. We booted up the snowpatch until able to scramble up to the ridge crest.
- Ascending Upper Whitman Glacier
- Marcus & Eileen & Ryan Nearing East Ridge
Easy scrambling along the crest led to a tiny—and very exposed—gap that separated us from the summit horn. We established a hand-line across this gap and carefully completed the exposed traverse.
- Using Handline Across Summit Gap
By 3:15pm, we were all gathered atop the small summit (7.9 hours + 4750 feet from camp). The register indicated that our party was the second ascent of 2019.
- Jim & Eileen On Little Tahoma Peak Summit
Our plans for a long, relaxing summit break were cut short by the sight of towering storm clouds and the sound of rolling thunder. We traversed back across the gap, then began descending the steep snowfields—all the while being pelted by wind-blown snow and graupel.
- Marcus & Ryan On Little Tahoma Peak Summit
- Ryan Downclimbing In Snow Squall
Thankfully, the snow squall was fairly short-lived. Weather conditions were much improved by the time we crossed over Whitman Notch (2.0 hours + from summit) and headed down the Fryingpan Glacier.
- Heading Down Fryingpan Glacier
Ryan had a bit of excitement when his legs punched through a small crevasse, but our descent was otherwise uneventful and social. Around 7:30pm, we reached the relatively gentle terrain of Meany Bench, where Eileen and I said goodbye to Marcus and Ryan. They continued down to Summer Land, and we strolled over to our campsite (4.1 hours from summit).
- Little Tahoma Peak From Fryingpan Glacier
Day 3: Meany Snowfield Outcrop to Trailhead
It was another cold and windy night, but the sky cleared throughout the morning. We retraced our footsteps down past Summer Land to Fryingpan Creek, then followed the trail back to our car (2.8 hours from camp).
- Descending Meany Snowfield On Day 3
Route Maps & Profile
…
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
