climbers hiking across Red Saddle with snow cornice in the Mazama Mountains near Scatter Creek Basin
Hiking across Red Cornice Saddle above Scatter Creek Basin

Greyhorn Peak via Scatter Creek Basin—Southeast Face (Mazama Mountains, WA)

Trip Date: June 6-8, 2019

Greyhorn Peak Climbing Trip

Scatter Creek Basin
Point 7612
aka South Scatter Point
Greyhorn Peak (7618′)
Red Cornice Saddle

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northeastern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Mazama Mountains

Area: Lake Chelan – Sawtooth Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: Scatter Creek Trailhead on Twisp River Road (Elev. 3200 feet)

Way Points: Scatter Creek & Scatter Creek Basin (trail hike)

Campsite: Scatter Creek Basin (Elev. 6500 feet)

Sidetrip: South Scatter Point & Point 7416 (off-trail hike & rock scramble); return via Point 7416 & Red Cornice Saddle (rock scramble & off-trail hike)

Summit: Greyhorn Peak (rock scramble via Southeast Face)

Approximate Stats: 11 miles traveled; 5700 feet gained & lost.

Related Post

Abernathy Peak via Scatter Lake–Southeast Slope – October 2012

Full Trip Report

Eileen and I joined Fay for a three-day trek up the Twisp River to climb Greyhorn Peak.  This largely unknown and rarely visited summit turned out to be a little gem, but it was the unseasonably cold weather that dominated our trip.

Day 1: Trailhead to Scatter Creek Basin

We started up the Scatter Creek Trail in mid-afternoon.  Sadly, a forest fire had burned out this area last year, leaving us to hike through alternating patches of green trees and blackened snags.  The most annoying part was crawling over or under the scorched logs that had fallen across the trail.  After a few miles, Fay was smeared with charcoal and looked like an old-time chimney sweep!

Blackened Fay On Scatter Creek Trail

Although the afternoon had began warm and sunny, the weather quickly grew cool, cloudy, and breezy.  In fact, it was downright cold by the time we reached 6500-foot Scatter Creek Basin (4.3 hours + 3300 feet from TH).  We pitched our three-person tent at an established campsite beside the trail.

Camp In Scatter Creek Basin

From camp, we had a good view of our planned route up to Point 7612 (aka South Scatter Point), which is on the same ridge as Greyhorn Peak.

South Scatter Point (7612) and Red Cornice Saddle From Camp

Day 2: Greyhorn Peak Summit Climb

Following a surprisingly frigid night, we awoke to a layer of ice in our cookpot and water jug.  Breakfast was consumed in an open meadow next to our camp, in an effort to take advantage of transient sunbeams.  Once underway, we ascended easy meadow slopes to the southwest, eventually gaining a spur ridge southeast of 7612-foot South Scatter Point.

Heading Up To Ridge Crest

On the crest, we turned right and went over South Scatter Point.  It had been trying to snow all morning, and the flakes came in earnest just as we reached the top.  Was this really June?!

Fay & Eileen In Snow Squall On South Scatter Point
Fresh Snow On Abernathy Peak

Continuing westward along the crest, we encountered some Class 3 scrambling to get over the top of Point 7416.  Fortunately, the snow squall had ended and the fresh snow was melting quickly.

Traversing Ridge To Greyhorn Peak

We then descended to a saddle at the base of Greyhorn Peak.  From there, it was not obvious where to go.  We started by scrambling straight up the east ridge, but this soon ended at a steep cliff.

Heading Up Greyhorn Peak
Steep Terrain On Greyhorn Peak

After scoping out several options, we discovered a series of ledges and ramps that led around to the left, past several small ribs and slots.  This put us near the middle of the southeast face, from where we could climb Class 2-3 rock directly up to the summit.

Fay & Eileen High On Greyhorn Peak

We topped out in early afternoon (3.9 hours + 1750 feet from camp) and stayed long enough to enjoy the steadily improving views.  Fay left a mini register in the summit cairn.

Eileen & Fay On Greyhorn Peak Summit
Reynolds Peak From Greyhorn Peak Summit

Our descent route took us back along the ridge crest until just below South Scatter Point.  From there, we easily dropped down to a 7500-foot saddle that features oxide-stained soil and rock overlain by an artistically formed remnant snow cornice.  The whole scene was visually striking!

Red Cornice Saddle & North Scatter Point (7763)
Hiking Across Red Cornice Saddle

We stepped around the cornice and worked our way down through scree slopes and ledgey rock to reach the large basin below.  We strolled into our campsite in late afternoon (3.7 hours + 550 feet from summit).

Day 3: Scatter Creek Basin to Trailhead

Following another cold night, we were pleased to see large blue patches in the morning.  Our hike back down the trail involved several stops to doff clothing layers, and it was pleasantly warm by the time we reached the trailhead (3.1 hours + 100 feet from camp).

Route Map

Greyhorn Peak Route Map (NatGeo / Fay)

Click to enlarge…