Trip Date: June 12-13, 1999
Mt. Shuksan Climbing Trip & Sulphide Glacier Ski Tour
Shannon Ridge
Sulphide Pass
Sulphide Glacier
Hell’s Gate
Mount Shuksan (9131′)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Nooksack Mountains
Area: North Cascades National Park
Starting & Ending Point: Shannon Creek Spur Road #1152-014 snow blockage (Elev. 2400 feet)
Way Points: Shannon Ridge & Sulphide Pass (snow hike & ski descent)
Campsite: Sulphide Pass (Elev. 5400 feet)
Sidetrip: Sulphide Glacier & Hell’s Gate (ski tour)
Summit: Mt. Shuksan (snow climb via Southwest Gully)
Ski Run: Sulphide Glacier (3000-foot ski descent)
Approximate Stats: 17 miles traveled; 6900 feet gained & lost.
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Full Trip Report By Laura Zimmerman
Day 1: Shannon Creek Spur Road to Sulphide Pass
Five of us hiked in with skis and climbing gear to climb Mt Shuksan by the Sulphide Glacier route. The road was snow covered and impassable even in my Jeep in places about a mile from the trailhead. The trail was melted out for about another mile, and became snow covered near the old forest service road. We hiked rather than skied, (too lazy to change gear!) and didn’t sink too badly in the softening snow. Camp made at Sulphide Pass (4.9 hours + 3200 feet from car).
Day 2: Mt. Shuksan Summit Climb + Ski Descent
From base camp at 5400 feet, we skied up the snow slopes. Very early morning start is advised, to be off the slopes by afternoon due to the soft slab avalanches. We also observed a cornice breaking off in late afternoon on Saturday.
A ski approach/descent to/from the summit block is recommended for moving quickly over several avalance slopes near 6,000 feet. However, one member of our climbing party did not ski; he hiked the whole way, had a lighter pack (didn’t have to haul skis), and made the summit ok. He remarked that the snow was soft in places and made walking somewhat difficult.
The summit block was snow covered – main gully 50 to 55 degree snow, soft snow, and rotten ice. Good pro in the rock beside the gully. Boots, crampons, and ice axe recommended.
The summit was snow covered (5.3 hours + 3800 feet from camp). Probably 10 feet of snow covered the rocks.
The ski out was soft but do-able. No open crevasses except for east side of snowfield near the Sulphide.
Excellent alpine climb, glamorous summit. Full conditions. Life is good!
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