August 21, 2004

Mesahchie Peak Day Climb

Easy Pass
Fisher Creek
Mesahchie Peak (8795′)

——————– Trip Report Summary ——————–

Region: Northeastern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Ragged Range

Area: North Cascades National Park

Starting & Ending Point: Easy Pass Trailhead (Highway 20)

Way Points: Granite Creek & Easy Pass Creek & Easy Pass & Fisher Creek (trail hike)

Summit: Mesahchie Peak (ascent & descent via Southeast Slope—South Rib—South Gullies)

Approximate Stats: 16 miles traveled; 8200 feet gained & lost; 6.4 hours up; 6.2 hours down.

——————– Full Trip Report ——————–

Despite a grim weekend weather forecast, Mike C and I headed out Saturday morning to attempt Mesahchie Peak via the South Rib route.  We carried bivouac gear, thinking that we might be able to summit and descend before the rains came, then camp somewhere on the mountain Saturday night.  This plan hinged on the simple and reasonable premise that every local meteorologist had overestimated the approach rate of the coming storm front…by 12 hours.  It’s obvious now, of course, that our thinking was perhaps a little too optimistic.

We started up the Easy Pass Trail under partly sunny skies and crested the pass 1.6 hours later.  Mt. Logan sprawled in front of us as we dropped 1500 feet into the Fisher Creek valley and continued downstream about ½ mile beyond Fisher Camp.

Where the trail skirts below a grassy, flower-filled glade, we headed up cross-country towards the prominent stream that emanates from Mesahchie Peak’s southeast basin.

There appeared to be several broad benches alongside this stream about 500 to 1000 feet up from the trail, and our intent was to camp on the first suitable bench.  However, none of these would-be campsites panned out;  instead, we ended up having to ascend steep heather slopes and cliff bands all the way to a little ridge step at 6700 feet (4.2 hours from car) before finding any flat ground.  We dumped our bivouac gear on this step, which lies between the southeast stream drainage (on the east) and a large talus basin (on the west).  Because this step also forms the terminus of Mesahchie’s South Rib, we could scope out our route to the towering summit block.

A dark cloud ceiling had gradually lowered upon us during our ascent from the trail, and rainfall was clearly imminent.  OK, the weather forecasters weren’t so far off after all, but we still hoped that the next couple of hours would bring sprinkles and light showers rather than a real downpour.

From our bivy site, we hiked up a heathery ridge crest to a rocky spur, then we proceeded up the spur itself.  This feature offered enjoyable, sustained Class 3 scrambling on surprisingly solid rock.  It was the best scrambling I’ve had all season, and it seemed to continue all the way to the summit!  Naturally, my obvious pleasure was a cue for the skies to open up.  It rained hard for 20 minutes or so, which was plenty long enough to turn the rock slippery and unpleasant.

We proceeded upward into wafting fog and intermittent rain, climbing at a cautiously slow rate.  The upper part of the mountain is a confusing network of gullies and ribs, such that with the poor visibility, we weren’t quite sure where to go.  Eventually, we encountered a long, distinctive friction ramp on what looked to be the right (east) side of the summit block.

Due to the rock being wet, this ramp became an “interesting” Class 3+ route to a narrow ridge crest above.  We carefully scrambled up, then westward—sometimes on the crest, sometimes on one side or the other—over a series of small points.  From each point, a slightly higher point would appear through the fog, but we finally reached one that had a cairn and a register tube (6.4 hours from car).  We were very happy that this point was the summit, because we sure didn’t feel like going any farther on the greasy-wet rock!

The register is a Mike Torok special that he placed during his 1994 climbing flurry.  We were the third party to sign in this year, and “three” seems to be the average number of parties signing in per year over the past decade.  Unfortunately, this wasn’t a day to lounge around the summit and peruse the register, so we soon started down.

It continued raining heavily at times, which made our descent somewhat dicey, especially in the areas where lichen or moss covered the rock.  Upon reaching our bivy site on the ridge step (2.0 hours from summit), we were soaked and uninspired by the prospect of spending a night here.  A quick decision was made to pack up and hike out, thereby accepting a long day as the price for a warm bed.

While stuffing gear in our packs, we were surprised to see two other climbers wander out of the fog!  They had just climbed the north face of Katsuk Peak (claiming a first ascent) and were now equally surprised to see Mike and me standing on the ridge crest in such miserable weather.  For reasons of safety and routefinding, we mutually agreed to combine parties during our descent to the Fisher Creek Trail.  This turned out to be a good move, because the wet heather slopes and cliff bands were treacherously slick;  we all took turns slipping, sliding, and falling down the hillside, and were lucky that nobody got seriously hurt.

Once we reached the trail, Mike and I motored back up to Easy Pass and managed to get ½ mile down the other side by “Headlamp:30.”  We stumbled into the parking lot shortly before 10:00pm (6.2 hours from summit).  Dry clothing and a package of chocolate-covered espresso beans became my best friends during the long drive home.

—————– Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) ——————-