Trip Date: May 26-27, 2007

Craggy Peaks Climbing Trip

Copper Glance Basin
West Craggy Peak (8366′)
Big Craggy Peak (8470′)

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northeastern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Pasayten Mountains

Area: Okanogan–Wenatchee National Forest

Starting & Ending Point: Copper Glance Trailhead on Eightmile Creek Road #5130 (Elev. 3800 feet)

Way Points: Copper Glance Creek & Copper Glance Basin (trail hike & snow hike)

Campsite: Copper Glance Basin (Elev. 6600 feet)

Summit: West Craggy Peak (snow climb & rock scramble via Southeast Ridge—South Shoulder)

Summit: Big Craggy Peak (snow climb & rock scramble via West Ridge—Southwest Slope)

Approximate Stats: 11 miles traveled; 5600 feet gained & lost.

Full Trip Report

When our weekend plans for a west-side trip got weathered out, Eileen, Steve, Beth, and I headed over to the Craggy Peaks up the Chewuch River. We hoped this was far enough east to escape the rain, and it was, but it wasn’t quite far enough to escape snow showers, strong winds, and a couple of strange incidents.

Day 1: Trailhead to Copper Glance Basin

Saturday afternoon, we hiked up Copper Glance Creek on bare trail, crossing a broken bridge over the creek. Snow patches started around 4600 feet; solid snowpack began at 5500 feet or so. We camped on a little knoll in scenic Copper Glance Basin at 6600 feet (3.3 hours + 2800 feet from TH) and found water nearby in a partially thawed tarn.

Day 2: Craggy Peaks Summit Climbs + Exit

Sunday morning, we headed up to the cirque below West Craggy Peak, then ascended a right-slanting snow chute to a col on the south ridge.

Some Class 2 rock and an upper snow couloir led to the easy summit ridge. We were on top by mid morning (2.6 hours + 1800 feet from camp), amidst light snowfall.

After a short break, we descended to the Big/West saddle and then climbed Big Craggy Peak (5.6 hours from camp) via barren scree and talus slopes. The weather was getting sunnier but windier.

On our way back to camp, we encountered a large group of backcountry skiers enjoying the south-facing basin slopes.

Not to be outdone by skiers, Steve let rip a fast sitting-glissade, only to run over a hidden rock and bruise his tailbone! This turned out to be quite painful, but it did garner him incessant fawning by Beth and Eileen.

We arrived back at camp (7.4 hours round trip) in a howling wind, finding that our tent had blown down and some of our gear had been scattered around the basin.  After retrieving our gear, we quickly packed up and high-tailed it (sorry!) down to the trailhead.

In a final odd twist, we discovered that both vehicles parked at the trailhead (mine and someone else’s) had flat tires! Coincidence or tomfoolery? I’ll never know for sure.

Route Map

Photo Gallery

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