Trip Date: June 22-24, 2001

Little Tahoma Peak Climbing Trip

Fryingpan Creek Valley
Summer Land aka Summerland
Fryingpan Glacier
Whitman Crest
Little Tahoma Peak (11,138/11,136 ft)

Trip Report Summary

Region: Southern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Mt. Rainier Massif

Area: Mt. Rainier National Park

Starting & Ending Point: Fryingpan Creek Trailhead on Sunrise Road (Elev. 3800 feet)

Way Points: Fryingpan Creek & Summer Land (trail hike)

Campsite: Summer Land (Elev. 5900 feet)

Summit: Little Tahoma Peak (snow climb & rock scramble via Meany Snowfield—Fryingpan Glacier—Whitman Notch—Whitman Glacier—East Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 14 miles traveled; 7600 feet gained & lost.

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Full Trip Report

Laura, Greg, Kevin and I were not encouraged by the bleak weather forecast when we all met at the Bellevue Park & Ride Friday afternoon. Driving down through Enumclaw, we saw only heavy clouds where Mt. Rainier should be. The ranger at White River Entrance wasn’t very optimistic about the weekend weather, either. But we pushed on anyway and were ultimately rewarded.

Day 1: Trailhead to Summer Land

We hiked up to Summerland in the evening, reaching a great camp spot at 10:00pm (2.0 hours + 2100 feet from TH). The Fryingpan Creek Trail was in excellent condition, with snow patches beginning around 4500 feet elevation. Our 5900-foot camp had a few snow patches, but we were able to pitch our tents on bare ground. As we crawled into our tents, a thick fog was forming. Things were not looking good for tomorrow’s summit bid.

Day 2: Little Tahoma Peak Summit Climb

We rose at 5:30am and could see Meany Crest through a light fog. At least we could find our way onto the Fryingpan Glacier, but beyond that we had doubts.

Soon after leaving camp, the fog cleared away and gave us views of Mt. Rainier basking in morning sun! We easily negotiated the tiny crevasses en route to Whitman Notch at 9100 feet. A few of the larger crevasses were open, but most were small slots that could easily be jumped over.

We continued up the Whitman Glacier, enjoying the good snow conditions (soft without being too gloppy) and ever-improving views. Leaving crampons and axes at the top of the glacier, we scrambled and hiked the last 400 feet to the east ridge.

One by one, we stepped onto the ridgecrest, peered over the 3000-foot cliff on the north side, and blurted out a personal variation of the same religious exclamation!! We all felt glad to still be roped up while making the short but exposed traverse over rotten rock to the summit horn (6.6 hours + 5500 feet from camp).

The summit views were astounding! The sparkling white cone of Rainier to the west, other volcanoes to the north and south, and countless sharp peaks projecting through the valley clouds.

Despite this eye feast, we were prompted to begin descending quickly, due to building clouds to the south. Camp Muir became engulfed within minutes. Our careful descent took us back down the loose rocks and upper Whitman Glacier before entering the fog bank at 9500 feet. Fortunately, we could follow our tracks and eventually broke out beneath the fog at 8000 feet.

The steep slopes of Meany Snowfield gave way to the grassy slopes of Summer Land and camp (3.9 hours from summit), where hot dinners and warm sleeping bags awaited. Over hot cider and reconstituted Tiramisu, we all agreed that “Little T” was big on alpine terrain and views!

Day 3: Summer Land to Trailhead

Following a night of steady rain, we awoke to clearing weather and made short work of the 4 miles back down to the trailhead (1.5 hours from camp).

Photo Gallery

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