Trip Date: August 2-5, 2008

MID-SUMMER OUTING NO. 6:  SOUTHERN PICKETS

West McMillan Spire Climbing Trip

Roost Meadows
Terror Creek Bench aka Shangri-La
Terror Glacier
West McMillan Spire aka “West Mac” (8000’+)

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Picket Range

Area: North Cascades National Park

Starting & Ending Point: Goodell Creek Trailhead near Goodell Group Campground at end of Goodell Creek Road (Elev. 600 feet)

Way Points: Goodell Creek & Roost Creek & Roost Meadows & Terror Creek Bench (trail hike & off-trail hike & rock scramble)

Campsite: Terror Creek Bench / Shangri-La (Elev. 5850 feet)

Sidetrip: Terror Glacier & Upper Barrier Crossing attempt (off-trail hike & rock scramble & snow climb)

Summit: West McMillan Spire (snow climb & rock scramble via Southwest Snowfinger—West Ridge)

Sidetrip: Terror Glacier & Lower Barrier crossing attempt & Azure Lake Saddle & Rusty Knob (off-trail hike & rock scramble & snow climb)

Approximate stats: 22 miles traveled; 17,000 feet gained & lost.

Related Post

West McMillan Spire via Southwest Snowfinger—West Ridge – August 2001

Full Trip Report

For our sixth annual Mid-Summer Climbing Trip, Jon, Eric, Todd, Adam, Ryan, and I headed into the Southern Pickets. Our goal was to climb West McMillan Spire and Mt. Degenhardt. Ultimately, we managed to tuck in only “West Mac” and suffered from some personnel issues, but we did get a nice tour of Terror Creek Cirque.

Day 1: Trailhead to Terror Creek Bench

We parked in the Goodell Creek Group Camp and hiked 4 miles up the abandoned (but well-trodden) Goodell Creek Trail. Atop a wooded rib (1.9 hours from TH) closely south of Terror Creek, we turned right and grunted up a steep climber’s path through deep forest. Partway up this path, while we all stopped for a rest break, Ryan announced that he wasn’t quite feeling the love for our current labor; instead, he planned to hike down to Highway 20 and hitch a ride back to Seattle. Despite our protests, he remained adamant, and our group parted ways at that point. (We later learned that his plan worked out quite well, such that he was home before dinnertime.)

Our remaining group of five continued upward, following the climber’s path over a cliff band to a high meadow, then we went leftward to gain a 6300-foot snow saddle (7.3 hours + 6500 feet from TH). From the saddle, we booted several hundred feet down a snowfield to reach the rocky flats of Terror Creek Bench—fondly known as Shangri-La (7.8 hours from TH). Base camp was established on a gravel pad here. The weather had been cool, foggy, and rainy all day, and a cold wind blew through our campsite. It didn’t quite feel like Shangri-La this evening.

Day 2: West McMillan Spire Climb

We awoke to blue skies and took the opportunity to dry out wet gear. By mid-morning, we were underway with summit packs, contouring snow benches, crossing the outlet of newly formed “Terror Lake,” and angling up the Terror Glacier.

At the upper-left corner of the glacier, where it abuts The Barrier, we spent some time assessing possible routes up Mt. Degenhardt. Surmounting The Barrier at this location is infamously difficult, and our assessment confirmed its reputation.

After identifying a few possible (but tricky) options for getting up The Barrier, we had enough time left for a climb of West Mac. We traversed eastward across the Terror Glacier until able to ascend a snow finger leading to the peak’s west ridge. A fun Class 3 scramble up the broad, moderately steep ridge crest got us to the summit at 4:30pm.

We scrambled back down the ridge and descended the Terror Glacier to reach camp just before sundown (9.7 hours total tour). Several other climbing groups had arrived earlier in the day, and we spent time chatting with some particularly friendly neighbors.

Day 3: Terror Creek Cirque Tour

We awoke to another warm and sunny morning with a goal of surmounting The Barrier and, hopefully, summiting Mt. Degenhardt. Our friendly neighbors had explained that the key to unlocking The Barrier was to climb up a dogface-shaped snowpatch and then scramble Class 3 rock to the crest. Armed with this beta, we headed up the Terror Glacier with renewed optimism.

Well…the benign-looking “dogface snowpatch” turned out to be a 50-degree slab of rock-hard snow with a nasty moat at the bottom. Upon finding ourselves 100 feet up the snowpatch, precariously roped to three pickets, we decided to pull the plug.

The remainder of our day was spent making a leisurely traverse eastward across the Terror Glacier to the saddle overlooking beautiful Azure Lake, then descending back to camp. Several additional parties had arrived in Shangri-La, making for a somewhat festive atmosphere. We stayed up chatting with other climbers until sundown.

Day 4: Terror Creek Bench to Trailhead

Today was our exit day from Shangri-La. Because my knees had been swollen and painful throughout the trip, I got a head start leaving camp. I cramponed up to the 6300-foot snow saddle, then angled down through the high meadows until encountering the dreaded cliff band. The others caught up to me here, and Adam graciously carried my backpack down the cliff so that I could slither down unencumbered.

Later, as I struggled down the steep climber’s path, Adam, Jon, and Todd devised an ingenious plan for shuttling my backpack 2000 vertical feet downhill in the most efficient and equitable manner. Their plan worked to perfection, such that they, I, and my backpack all arrived at the bottom of the path almost simultaneously. Thanks guys! I was then able to carry my own pack for the final 4 miles of gentle trail. We all reached the trailhead by early afternoon (6.7 hours from camp).

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