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        • Black Peak (8970 ft)
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        • Slesse Mountain (8002 ft)
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      • The Tall Twelve
        • Black Peak (8970 ft)
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        • Copper Peak (8964 ft)
        • Dome Peak (8920 ft)
        • Dragontail Peak (8840+ ft)
        • Eldorado Peak (8868 ft)
        • Forbidden Peak (8815 ft)
        • Gardner Mountain (8898 ft)
        • Mt Redoubt (8969 ft)
        • Mt Spickard (8979 ft)
        • North Gardner Mountain (8956 ft)
        • Silver Star Mountain (8876 ft)
    • Canadian Cascades Majors
      • The Canadian Chilliwack Three
        • Mt Lindeman (7578 ft)
        • Mt Rexford (7641 ft)
        • Slesse Mountain (8002 ft)
      • The Cheam Six
        • Baby Munday Peak (7382 ft)
        • Cheam Peak (6929 ft)
        • Foley Peak (7572 ft)
        • Lady Peak (7182 ft)
        • Stewart Peak (7343 ft)
        • Welch Peak (7999 ft)
      • The Coquihalla Seven
        • Coquihalla Mountain (7077 ft)
        • Gemse Peak (6201 ft)
        • Ibex Peak (6690 ft)
        • Needle Peak (6857 ft)
        • Steinbok Peak (6601 ft)
        • Vicuna Peak (6880+ ft)
        • Yak Peak (6640+ ft)
      • The Sumallo Three
        • Mt Payne (8097 ft)
        • Mt Rideout (8029 ft)
        • Silvertip Mountain (8517 ft)
    • Northwestern Cascades Majors
      • The American Chilliwack Six
        • Bear Mountain (7931 ft)
        • Mt Custer (8630 ft)
        • Mt Redoubt (8969 ft)
        • Mt Spickard (8979 ft)
        • Northwest Mox Peak (8407 ft)
        • Southeast Mox Peak (8504 ft)
      • The Lower Skagit Five
        • Bacon Peak (7061 ft)
        • Mt Blum (7680 ft)
        • Mt Despair (7292 ft)
        • Mt Hagan (7080 ft)
        • Mt Triumph (7270 ft)
      • The McAllister Five
        • Austera Peak (8334 ft)
        • Colonial Peak (7771 ft)
        • Klawatti Peak (8485 ft)
        • Primus Peak (8508 ft)
        • Snowfield Peak (8347 ft)
      • The Nooksack Six
        • American Border Peak (7994 ft)
        • Canadian Border Peak (7516 ft)
        • Mt Larrabee (7861 ft)
        • Mt Sefrit (7191 ft)
        • Mt Shuksan (9131 ft)
        • Tomyhoi Peak (7435 ft)
      • The Picket Twelve
        • Crooked Thumb (8124 ft)
        • East McMillan Spire (7992 ft)
        • Inspiration Peak (7880 ft)
        • Luna Peak (8311 ft)
        • Mt Challenger (8207 ft)
        • Mt Degenhardt (8000 ft)
        • Mt Fury: east peak (8356 ft)
        • Mt Fury: west peak (8305 ft)
        • Mt Terror (8151 ft)
        • Mt Triumph (7270 ft)
        • Phantom Peak (8045 ft)
        • West Twin Needle (7936 ft)
      • The Thunder Eight
        • Boston Peak (8894 ft)
        • Eldorado Peak (8868 ft)
        • Forbidden Peak (8815 ft)
        • Mt Buckner (9114 ft)
        • Mt Goode (9235 ft)
        • Mt Logan (9087 ft)
        • Sahale Peak (8680 ft)
        • Storm King Mountain (8520 ft)
      • The Twin Sisters Two
        • North Twin Sister (6640 ft)
        • South Twin Sister (7000 ft)
    • Northeastern Cascades Majors
      • The Mazama Three
        • Gardner Mountain (8898 ft)
        • North Gardner Mountain (8956 ft)
        • Silver Star Mountain (8876 ft)
      • The Pasayten Eleven
        • Big Craggy Peak (8470 ft)
        • Blackcap Mountain (8397 ft)
        • Lake Mountain (8371 ft)
        • Lost Peak (8464 ft)
        • Monument Peak (8592 ft)
        • Mt Carru (8595 ft)
        • Mt Lago (8745 ft)
        • Osceola Peak (8587 ft)
        • Ptarmigan Peak (8614 ft)
        • Robinson Mountain (8726 ft)
        • West Craggy Peak (8366 ft)
      • The Ragged Seven
        • Black Peak (8970 ft)
        • Corteo Peak (8080 ft)
        • Cosho Peak (8332 ft)
        • Katsuk Peak (8680 ft)
        • Kimtah Peak (8600 ft)
        • Mesahchie Peak (8795 ft)
        • Mt Arriva (8215 ft)
      • The Similkameen Three
        • Cathedral Peak (8601 ft)
        • Grimface Mountain (8645 ft)
        • Remmel Mountain (8685 ft)
      • The Upper Methow Six
        • Azurite Peak (8400 ft)
        • Cutthroat Peak (8050 ft)
        • Golden Horn (8366 ft)
        • Mt Ballard (8340 ft)
        • Mt Hardy (8080 ft)
        • Tower Mountain (8444 ft)
      • The Upper Skagit Five
        • Castle Peak (8306 ft)
        • Crater Mountain (8128 ft)
        • Jack Mountain (9066 ft)
        • Hozomeen Mountain: North Peak (8066 ft)
        • Hozomeen Mountain: South Peak (8003 ft)
      • The Washington Pass Three
        • Liberty Bell Mountain (7720 ft)
        • North Early Winters Spire (7760 ft)
        • South Early Winters Spire (7807 ft)
    • North-Central Cascades Majors
      • The Chelan Four
        • Cardinal Peak (8590 ft)
        • Emerald Peak (8422 ft)
        • Pinnacle Mountain (8402 ft)
        • Saska Peak (8404 ft)
      • The Chiwawa Four
        • Buck Mountain (8560 ft)
        • Chiwawa Mountain (8459 ft)
        • Dumbell Mountain (8421 ft)
        • Fortress Mountain (8760 ft)
      • The DaKobed Four
        • Chalangin Peak (8320 ft)
        • Clark Mountain (8602 ft)
        • Luahna Peak (8400 ft)
        • Tenpeak Mountain (8281 ft)
      • The Entiat Five
        • Copper Peak (8964 ft)
        • Mt Fernow (9249 ft)
        • Mt Maude (9082 ft)
        • Seven-Fingered Jack (9100 ft)
        • South Spectacle Butte (8392 ft)
      • The Monte Cristo Seven
        • Cadet Peak (7186 ft)
        • Columbia Peak (7172 ft)
        • Del Campo Peak (6610 ft)
        • Foggy Peak (6810 ft)
        • Kyes Peak (7280 ft)
        • Monte Cristo Peak (7136 ft)
        • South Gemini Peak (6799 ft)
      • The Ptarmigan Pten
        • Agnes Mountain (8115 ft)
        • Dome Peak (8920 ft)
        • Johannesburg Mountain (8200 ft)
        • Main Gunsight Peak (8198 ft)
        • Mt Formidable (8325 ft)
        • Old Guard Peak (8240 ft)
        • Sentinel Peak (8261 ft)
        • Sinister Peak (8440 ft)
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        • Black Mountain (7262 ft)
        • Mt Pugh (7201 ft)
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        • Three Fingers: south peak (6854 ft)
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        • Martin Peak (8375 ft)
        • Corax Peak (8572 ft)
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        • Oval Peak (8795 ft)
        • Reynolds Peak (8512 ft)
        • Star Peak (8690 ft)
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        • Gunn Peak (6240 ft)
        • Mt Baring (6125 ft)
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      • The Stehekin Seven
        • Bonanza Peak (9511 ft)
        • Devore Peak (8360 ft)
        • Flora Mountain (8320 ft)
        • Main Riddle Peak (8232 ft)
        • Martin Peak (8511 ft)
        • Tupshin Peak (8320 ft)
        • Wy’East Mountain (8280 ft)
      • The Suiattle Five
        • Mt Bruseth (7220 ft)
        • Mt Buckindy (7320 ft)
        • Mt Chaval (7127 ft)
        • Mt Misch (7435 ft)
        • Snowking Mountain (7433 ft)
    • Central Cascades Majors
      • The Chiwaukum Two
        • Big Chiwaukum Peak (8081 ft)
        • Snowgrass Mountain (7993 ft)
      • The Icicle Eight
        • Argonaut Peak (8453 ft)
        • Cannon Mountain (8638 ft)
        • Cashmere Mountain (8501 ft)
        • Colchuck Peak (8705 ft)
        • Dragontail Peak (8840+ ft)
        • McClellan Peak (8364 ft)
        • Mt Stuart (9415 ft)
        • Sherpa Peak (8605 ft)
      • The Snoqualmie Twelve
        • Bears Breast Mountain (7197 ft)
        • Chair Peak (6238 ft)
        • Chikamin Peak (7000+ ft)
        • Chimney Rock (7727 ft)
        • Hibox Peak (6547 ft)
        • Kaleetan Peak (6259 ft)
        • Lemah Mountain (7480 ft)
        • Mt Daniel (7986 ft)
        • Mt Hinman (7492 ft)
        • Mt Thomson (6554 ft)
        • Summit Chief Mountain (7464 ft)
        • Three Queens: main peak (6687 ft)
    • Southern Cascades Majors
      • The Goat Rocks Three
        • Ives Peak (7932 ft)
        • Old Snowy Mountain (7930 ft)
        • Mt Curtis Gilbert (8184 ft)
    • Olympic Mountains Majors
      • The Olympic Thirteen
        • Mt Anderson: east peak (7321 ft)
        • Mt Anderson: west peak (7365 ft)
        • Mt Angeles (6454 ft)
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        • Mt Constance: outer peak (7756 ft)
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        • The Brothers: south peak (6842 ft)
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        • Big Four Mountain (6160 ft)
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        • Sluiskin Mountain: The Chief (7026 ft)
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        • Whatcom Peak (7574 ft)
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A mountain climber scrambling steep rock slabs which lead to the Sherpa Glacier on Mt Stuart in the Icicle Mountains
Jim Y climbing rock slabs toward Sherpa Glacier on Mt Stuart

Mt Stuart attempt via Mountaineer Creek Basin—Sherpa Glacier (Icicle Mountains, WA)

Jim Brisbine·September 13, 1976
Central WA CascadesIcicle MountainsMt Stuart (9415 ft)The Big TenThe Early YearsThe Icicle EightThe Landmark Twelve
·8 views

September 1976

Mt. Stuart Climbing Trip

Mountaineer Creek Basin
Mount Stuart (9415′) attempt

—————– Trip Report Summary —————–

Region: Central Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Icicle Mountains

Area: Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: Lake Stuart / Colchuck Lake Trailhead (Eightmile Creek Road)

Way Points: Mountaineer Creek & Mountaineer Creek Flats & Mountaineer Creek Basin (trail hike & off-trail hike & bushwhack)

Campsite: Mountaineer Creek Flats

Summit Attempt: Mt. Stuart (climb to bergschrund via Sherpa Glacier) 

Approximate Stats: 13 miles traveled; 5000 feet gained & lost.

——————– Related Posts ——————–

Mt Stuart via Ulcadian Couloir—East Ridge – June 7, 2009
Mt Stuart via Ulrichs Couloir – August 27, 1989
Mt Stuart Carry-Over via West Ridge – July 16, 1978
Mt Stuart via Ice Cliff Glacier—East Ridge – July 13, 1977
Mt Stuart attempt via Ice Cliff Glacier – September 23, 1976

————— Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) —————-

A mountain climber scrambling steep rock slabs which lead to the Sherpa Glacier on Mt Stuart in the Icicle Mountains
Jim Y climbing rock slabs toward Sherpa Glacier on Mt Stuart
Altocumulus Clouds Over Mt Stuart
Altocumulus Clouds Over Mt Stuart
Mountaineer Creek Basin From Sherpa Glacier
Mountaineer Creek Basin From Sherpa Glacier
Jim B Below Sherpa Glacier Bergschrund
Jim B Below Sherpa Glacier Bergschrund
Previous ArticleMt David via White River—Lookout Trail (Upper Wenatchee Mountains, WA)
Next ArticleMt Stuart attempt via Mountaineer Creek Basin—Ice Cliff Glacier (Icicle Mountains, WA)
Jim Brisbine

Jim Brisbine has been climbing Washington peaks for over 45 years, while documenting hundreds of summits and thousands of trail miles in words and pictures. As the creator of "Major Peaks of the Cascades and Olympics --- Fraser/Nicola River to Columbia River," he is an avid outdoorsman and lifelong trailcat who only occasionally ventures beyond the Pacific Northwest.

Meet TrailCatJim

Jim Brisbine has been climbing Washington peaks for 40+ years, documenting hundreds of summits and thousands of trail miles in words and pictures. As the author of "Major Peaks of the Cascades and Olympics --- Fraser/Nicola River to Columbia River," he is an avid outdoorsman and lifelong trailcat who only occasionally ventures beyond the Pacific Northwest.

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Huckleberry Mtn via Kendall Pass—Huckleberry Flats—East Ridge—Upper East Face (Snoqualmie Range, WA)

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Little Big Chief Peak, Summit Chief Mountain, and Chimney Rock over Tank Lakes seen at sunset from Tank during the La Bohn - Tank Loop

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Big Lou Mountain and Ida Saddle in the background with golden larch trees and fall colors as seen from Painter Pass on the Icicle Ridge Traverse

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Mountain climbers crossing snowfield below Baby Munday Peak taken from Stewart Peak in the Cheam Range

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Instagram Feed

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April is a month of such contrasts in the mountain April is a month of such contrasts in the mountains. The lowland crags offer climbing on warm rock, while the highlands still offer skiing on fresh snow. And the midland trails are open for mountain biking…although you might get surprised by that unexpected snowstorm! >>>> #rockclimbing #cragclimbing #backcountryskiing #xcskiing #crosscountryskiing #mtbiking #mountainbiking
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Non-Major Peaks and Out-of-Area Peaks

Abernathy Peak (1)Abiel Peak (1)Alta Mtn (3)Amabilis Mtn (1)Amphitheater Mtn (1)Angels Landing (UT) (2)Apex Mtn (1)Arrowhead Mtn (2)Art's Knoll (1)Atalaya Mtn (NM) (1)Atrium Peak (1)Avalanche Peak (NZ) (1)Axis Peak (1)Bandit Peak (1)Banshee Peak (3)Barn Bluff (Tasmania) (1)Barrier Peak (1)Bean Peak (1)Bear Skull Peak (1)Beauty Peak (1)Beaverhead Peak (BC) (1)Bedal Peak (1)Beta Peak (1)Big American Peak (1)Big Beaver Peak (2)Big Chief Mtn (1)Big Jim Mtn (2)Big Lou Mtn (2)Big McWaukum Peak (2)Big Snow Mtn (3)Bills Peak (1)Black Crater (OR) (1)black tower (2)Blackwall Peak (1)blizzard peak (1)Bogachiel Peak (1)Bojo Mtn (1)Bootjack Mtn (1)Boulder Butte (3)bowan mtn (2)Breccia Peak (1)Bridge Mtn (NV) (1)Brothers, The: no peak (1)Bryant Peak (1)Buckhorn Mtn (1)Bulls Head (1)Burroughs Mtn (1)Camelback Mtn (AZ) (1)Camp Robber Peak (1)Cape Horn (Chiwaukum) (2)Capitol Butte (AZ) (1)Carne Mtn (3)Castle, The (Tatoosh) (1)Catt Peak (1)Cerro Grande (NM) (1)Challenger 2 Pinnacle (1)Challenger west peak (1)Cheops Peak (1)Chilly Peak (1)Chimney Rock: so peak (1)Chinook Peak (1)Choral Peak (1)Chumstick Snag (1)Church Mtn (1)Circle Peak (1)Clouds Rest (CA) (1)Coleman Pinnacle (2)Conical Hill (NZ) (1)Cooney/Switchback Peak (2)Cornice Peak (1)Cougar Mtn (Issy) (1)Courtney Peak (3)Cowlitz Middle Chimney (2)Cowlitz Rocks (2)Cradle Mtn (Tasmania) (1)Crescent Tower (Bugaboo) (1)Cusick Mtn (OR) (1)Daemon Peak (1)Davis Peak (Waptus) (1)Deadhorse Peak (2)Deadwood Peak (1)Denny Mtn (1)Desolation Peak (2)Devils Dome (Skagit) (2)Devils Head (Tean) (1)Devils Peak (Sauk) (1)Devils Smoke Stack (2)Dewey Peak (2)Dirtyface Mtn: NW Peak (1)Dirtyface Mtn: SE Peak (1)Dot Mtn (1)Dungeon Peak (2)Dysprosium Peak (2)Eagle Cap (OR) (1)easy peak (Picket) (3)Echo Rock (Rainier) (1)Elephant Butte (2)Elizabeth Peak (1)Escondido Point (1)Excelsior Point (1)Ferry Peak (Sawtooth) (1)Fifes Peaks (1)Fifth of July Mtn (1)Finney Peak (Sawtooth) (1)Fisher Peak (2)Fortune Mtn (Beckler) (1)Fortune/Headlight Peak (1)Freedom Peak (1)Freezer Peak (2)French Cabin Mtn (1)Frigid Mtn (1)Frisco Mtn (1)Goat Island Mtn (1)Goat Mtn: East Peak (1)Goat Mtn: West Peak (1)Gopher Mountain (1)Gothic Peak (2)Governors Peak (1)Graham Mtn (1)Grand Teton (WY) (1)Granite Mtn (Icicle) (1)Granite Mtn Main (Snoq) (1)Granite Mtn West (Snoq) (2)Gray Peak (1)Graybeard Peak (1)Green Mtn (Suiattle) (1)Greyhorn Peak (1)Grindstone Mtn (2)Gunn Point (2)Gunnshy Peak (1)hahlakl peak (2)Half Dome (CA) (1)Harding Mtn (1)Hawkins Mtn (3)Hessong Rock (1)Hi-Jack Peak (1)Hidden Lake Peak (1)High Esmerelda Peak (1)High Rock (Nisq) (1)Highchair Mtn (1)Hoch Joch Spitz (1)Horsethief Peak (1)Huckleberry Mtn (Snoq) (1)Huckleberry Mtn (Suiattle) (1)Hurricane Peak (1)hurry-up peak (1)Icebox Peak (1)Icicle Peak (7)Icy SE Peak (1)Ida/Rover Peak (1)Indian Head Peak (1)Ingalls East Peak (2)Ingalls South Peak (2)Iron Cap Mtn (1)Ironview Peak (AZ) (1)Isolation Peak (1)Jackaroo Peak (1)Jim Hill Mtn (3)Jolly Mtn (1)jumbo mtn (1)kangaroo temple (1)Keechelus Peak (1)Kendall Peak (2)Kitling Peak (1)Knight Peak (1)Kololo Peak (2)Labyrinth Mtn (3)ladies peak (1)Lake Peak (NM) (1)Lakeview Mtn (1)leconte mtn (1)Lemah Thumb (1)Lembert Dome (CA) (1)Libby Mtn (1)Liberty Cap (Chiwawa) (2)Lichtenberg Mtn (3)Little Giant Peak (1)Longs Peak (1)Lookout Mtn (Teebone) (1)Louis Peak (1)Lundin Peak (2)Lynch Peak (1)Magic Mtn (1)Malachite Peak (1)Marmolata Spire (Bugaboo) (1)Marys Peak (Tean) (1)Mastodon Peak (CA) (1)Matterhorn (OR) (1)McClellan Butte (1)McCue Peak (1)Merchant Peak (1)Miller Peak (1)Mirror Mtn (1)Monument 83 Hill (2)Morning Star Peak (1)Mountaineer Peak (1)Mt Amos (Tasmania) (1)Mt Berge (1)Mt Catherine (2)Mt Cleator (1)Mt Conness (CA) (1)Mt Dickerman (1)Mt Ellinor (1)Mt Fernow (Beckler) (1)Mt Forgotten (1)Mt Gibbs (1)mt hood (OR) (2)mt howard (2)Mt John (NZ) (1)Mt Jonathan (1)Mt Laura (1)Mt Lena (1)Mt Margaret (1)Mt Mastiff (1)Mt McCausland (2)Mt Oberlin (MT) (1)Mt Ollivier (NZ) (1)Mt Ossa (Tasmania) (1)Mt Persis (2)Mt Pleasant (1)Mt Rolo (1)Mt Ruth (Rainier) (1)Mt Saul (1)Mt Seattle (1)Mt Sinclair (NZ) (1)Mt Skokomish (1)Mt St Piran (AB) (1)Mt Suappoa (AZ) (1)Mt Teneriffe (1)Mt Torment (1)Mt Watson (1)Mt Whitney (CA) (1)Mt Wilson (NV) (1)mt wintrop (1)Napeequa Mtn (1)Navaho Peak (1)Navarre North Peak (1)Navarre South Peak (1)Nimbus Peak (1)Nordic Mtn (Selkirk) (1)Norse Peak (4)Oakes Peak (1)Old Desolate (1)old maid mtn (1)Paddy-Go-North Peak (2)Paddy-Go-South Peak (1)Paintbrush Peak (WY) (1)Pass Butte (Pasayten) (1)Peak Hill (NZ) (1)Pemmican Peak (1)Perfect Peak (Selkirk) (1)Picketpost Mtn (AZ) (1)Pickhandle Point (1)Pico Perico (MX) (1)Pinnacle Peak (Tatoosh) (1)Pirate Little Peak (1)Plummer Mtn (Suiattle) (1)Plummer Peak (Tatoosh) (1)Poe Mtn (1)Portal Peaks (Baker) (1)Pratt Mtn (2)Pyramid Mtn (Chelan) (3)Pyramid Peak (Greenwater) (1)Quiniscoe Mtn (1)Ragged Peak (1)Rainy Peak (1)Rampart Mtn (Entiat) (1)Rampart Peak (Keechelus) (2)Rattlesnake Mtn (Issy) (3)Red Mtn (Kachess) (3)Red Mtn (Ragged) (1)Red Mtn (Snoq) (1)Red Top Mtn (2)Rennie Peak (1)Revolution Peak (1)Rhino Butte (2)rock mtn (Nason) (8)Rooster Finch Tower (1)Round Mtn (Nason) (1)Round Mtn (Stilly) (1)royal peak (2)ruby mtn (1)Ruth Mtn (Nooksack) (2)Ryan Mtn (CA) (1)Salvation Peak (1)Sauk Mtn (2)Seymour Peak (1)Sherpani Peak (1)Siligo Peak (CA) (1)Silver King Peak (1)Silver Peak (Snoq) (3)Silvertip Peak (Monte Cristo) (1)Sitting Bull Mtn (1)Skykomish Peak (1)Skyscraper Mtn (1)Sluiskin Mtn: The Squaw (1)Snoqualmie Mtn (2)Snoqualmie Tooth (2)Sobieski Mtn (1)Sourdough Mtn (1)spectacle north butte (1)Sperry Peak (1)Squak Mtn (Issy) (1)Squaretop Mtn (1)St'auk Mtn (1)Stetattle Buttes (2)Stillaguamish Peak (1)Stone City Mtn (2)Stormy Mtn (2)Stroud Peak (WY) (1)Sulphur Mtn (1)Sun Top (2)Superstition Peak (AZ) (2)Tailgunner Peak (2)Tamanos Mtn (1)Teanaway Butte (1)thea foss peak (1)Thompson Point (2)Thor Peak (1)Thornton Peak (1)Thorp Mtn (1)Three Brothers Mtn (2)Three Queens: middle peak (1)Three Queens: west peak (1)Thunder Mtn (Icicle) (1)Tiffany Mtn (1)Tiger Mtn East (1)Tinkham Peak (1)Tolmie Peak (1)Tourmaline Peak (1)Trappers Peak (Skagit) (1)Trico Mtn (1)Tricouni Peak (1)Tronsen Head (7)Tumalo Mtn (OR) (1)Tumble Mtn (1)Tuolumne Peak (CA) (1)Turtlehead Peak (NV) (1)Twentymile No Peak (1)unicorn peak (1)Uno Peak (1)Verrado Peak (AZ) (1)Vesper Peak (2)Volcanic Neck (Tean) (1)Warren Peak (CA) (1)Wheeler Peak (NM) (1)white mtn (sauk) (2)White Rock Peak (NV) (1)Whittier Peak (1)Wild Goat Peak (1)Windy Joe Mtn (2)Wing Peak (Sky) (1)Wolframite Mtn (1)Yakima Peak (1)Yellow Hill (Tean) (1)Yellow Rock (UT) (1)Zorro Point (Snoq) (1)
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