Trip Date: July 10, 2022
2022 ITALIAN DOLOMITES VACATION
Via Ferrata delle Trincee Loop / Klettersteig Trincee Loop
Rifugio Luigi Gorza aka Luigi Gorza Hutte aka Luigi Gorza Hut
Bivacco Bontandini aka Bontandini Biwak aka Bontandini Bivouac
Cima Mesolina (8625 ft / 2630 m)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Dolomite Alps (Italy)
Locale: Lake Fedaia
Starting & Ending Point: Alta Via 2 Trailhead near Castiglioni Marmolada Hut on Road SS-641
Rating: 4B (Very Difficult)
Approximate Stats (full hiking & climbing loop): 5.2 miles / 8.4 km traveled; 3000 feet / 900 meters gained & lost; 8.1 hours elapsed.
Approximate Stats (via ferrata traverse only): 1.3 miles / 2.1 km traveled; 800 feet / 240 meters gained & lost; 4.0 hours elapsed.
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Related Posts
Alta Via 2 Trail Traverse – Trekking Overview
Alta Via 2 Trail Traverse – North Part: Brixen/Bressanone to Marmolada
Alta Via 2 Trail Traverse – South Part: Marmolada to Feltre
Full Trip Report
During our short layover at the Castiglioni Hut adjacent to Lake Fedaia, Eileen and Brooke and I completed a marvelous hiking and climbing loop that incorporated Via Ferrata delle Trincee. This popular via ferrata combines fantastic climbing with fascinating history. It takes adventurous trekkers up difficult rock faces, along wildly exposed ridge crests, and through old World War I army tunnels. Another unusual element of the route is the geology; whereas most via ferratas in Italy involve dolomitic (calcium-magnesium carbonate) rock, this one involves solidly fused volcanic (andesite) conglomerate.
Starting from the Alta Via 2 trailhead across Road SS641 from the Castiglioni Marmolada Hut, we ascended a steep trail to the Luigi Gorza Hut. This oddly futuristic-looking hut provided dramatic sunrise views of Piz Boe to our north and Marmolada to our south.
From the Gorza Hut, we hiked ⅓ mile eastward to the base of a steep rock wall below Cima Mesola. A small white plaque mounted high on this wall marks the start of Via Ferrata delle Trincee.
Trincee gets serious right off the deck, combining difficult (Grade 4) climbing moves with sparse stemple placements. The first 30 vertical feet requires delicate footwork and brute-force handwork, then the angle eases back to a more moderate grade.
A rightward traverse across a smooth slab led us around a wildly exposed pinnacle of rock. Thankfully, the well-textured rock and well-positioned cable supplied secure footholds and handholds.
Upon reaching a deep notch between two pinnacles, we were delighted to see a long suspension bridge spanning the gap. This route really checks all the boxes!
Just beyond the suspension bridge, we passed by several rock walls perched on high ledges. A tricky down-climb then took us down to a grassy hillslope, where a trail led us over to a promontory with more rock walls. These various walls represent the ruins of World War I bunkers built by soldiers during the Austro-Hungarian / Italian border battles.
Continuing eastward, we encountered more cables that went up a rock face and across a cliff band perforated by numerous army tunnels. We donned headlamps and explored several of these tunnels, most of which had been excavated to give soldiers access to both sides of the ridge.
More easterly traversing took us across a cliff and into a vast network of army tunnels. Here, rock steps ascend into a main passageway with numerous alcoves, galleries, and secondary tunnels on each side. It was mind-boggling to think that this subterranean network was bustling with scores of soldiers a century ago.
Our excursion through the tunnels brought us to an opening directly above the old Bontadini bivouac shelter, which butts up against a leaning boulder. What this ancient stone structure lacks in comfort and amenities, it makes up for with rustic charm.
Having a little extra time available, Brooke and I made a quick sidetrip up nearby Cima Messolina. A short scramble and steep hike ended at the crucifix-adorned summit, which provided a nice view of our entire via ferrata ridge route.
For our return to the Castiglioni Hut, we descended easterly toward the Padon Hut, then turned westward on a good trail. Keeping left at two closely spaced junctions, we began a gradual descent across the ever-steepening hillslope. Our good trail got progressively narrower and steeper, eventually becoming nothing more than a sketchy bootpath. It was a relief to finally reach the trailhead in early afternoon (8.1 hours for total loop). Although our descent trail was direct, we all wished that we had taken one of the higher—and better established—hillslope trails.
Route Map & Profile
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Photo Gallery
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