sharp, pointy summit of Golden Horn stands above Snowy Lakes in the Upper Methow Mountains
Snowy Lakes and Golden Horn viewed from Tower Mountain

Tower Mtn via West Face + Golden Horn via Southwest Side + Snowy Lakes (Upper Methow Mountains, WA)

Trip Date: September 26-28, 2008

GOLDEN LARCH OUTING:  UPPER METHOW MOUNTAINS

Tower Mountain & Golden Horn Climbing Trip

Cutthroat Pass
Granite Pass
Snowy Lakes
Golden Horn (8366′)

Tower Mountain (8444′)

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northeastern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Upper Methow Mountains

Area: North Cascades Scenic Highway Corridor

Starting & Ending Point: PCT-Northbound Trailhead at Rainy Pass on Highway 20 (Elev. 4850 feet)

Way Points: Porcupine Creek & Porcupine Basin & Cutthroat Pass & Granite Pass & Snowy Creek Meadow & Lower Snowy Lake & Upper Snowy Lake (trail hike)

Campsite: Upper Snowy Lake saddle (Elev. 6900 feet)

Summit: Golden Horn (off-trail hike & rock climb via Southwest Slope—Southwest Gully; descent via Northwest Gully—Southwest Slope)

Sidetrip: Lower Snowy Lake & Tower Basin (trail hike & off-trail hike & rock scramble)

Summit: Tower Mountain (rock scramble via West Ridge—Southwest Gully—West Face)

Approximate Stats: 26 miles traveled; 5800 feet gained & lost.

Full Trip Report

I spent a wonderful weekend in the beautiful Snowy Lakes area with Eileen, Beth, Lisa, and John A. This was my third trip with Lisa, who had rescued me from a snowy ditch on the Barclay Creek Road several years ago, and my first trip with John. We enjoyed their company greatly.

Day 1: Trailhead to Snowy Lakes

On Friday, we hiked in about 11 miles and set up camp in the grassy saddle above Upper Snowy Lake (6.0 hours from TH). Larch trees were just starting to turn gold, so this became known as “The Turning Larch Trip.” The night was clear, chilly, and surprisingly wind-free.

Golden Horn peak with a clear reflection in Snowy Lakes in the Upper Methow Mountains
Golden Horn from Snowy Lakes
mountain climber dinner at camp under Tower Mountain in the Upper Methow Mountains
Dinnertime In Camp
sunset firey light above Tower Mountain in the Upper Methow Mountains with mountain climber's camp on the rock slabs of Snowy Lakes
Fire Over Tower Mountain

Day 2 (AM): Golden Horn Summit Climb

On Saturday, we awoke to high clouds and winds aloft. The clouds created some stunning light shows as we headed out early for Golden Horn.

Morning sunrise on Black Peak and Mt Hardy in the Upper Methow Mountains with a mountain climber sitting on a rock slab
Morning View Of Black Peak and Mt Hardy
looking down on mountain climber hiking up the shoulder of Golden Horn peak in the Upper Methow Mountains with Snowy Lakes in the basin below
Snowy Lakes from Golden Horn ridge

The ascent went quickly to the granitic summit horn, which involved a very short Class 4 climb on frosty rock. We couldn’t stay long on the frigid summit (2.5 hours from camp).

mountain climbers sitting on the granite slab of Golden Horn peak in the Upper Methow Mountains
Eileen, Lisa, and Beth On Golden Horn
roped mountain climbers taking a break on the rock, slab summit of Golden Horn peak in the Upper Methow Mountains
John and Jim On Golden Horn

A 35-foot rappel got us down the north side to where we could hike back to camp for lunch.

Day 2 (PM): Tower Mountain Summit Climb

After lunch, we all headed out for Tower Mountain. In contrast to Golden Horn, this peak involves a fairly long, convoluted, and intriguing route to the summit, starting with a traverse to Tower Basin.

mountain climbers traversing loose scree slope below Tower Mountain in the Upper Methow Mountains
Heading For Tower Mountain

We got off course at one point by exiting the main (west) gully too early, then ending up on exposed snow-covered ledges. We eventually got ourselves righted, and the rest of the climb was pleasant Class 3 rock.

mountain climber standing on rock generarme on the shoulder of Tower Mountain with the Upper Methow Mountains in the distance
Jim On Striking Generarme (photo By John)
mountain climbers scrambling rock slabs through a dusting of snow on Tower Mountain in the Upper Methow Mountains
Nearing Summit Of Tower Mountain

The summit (3.5 hours from camp) is adorned with a giant cairn but no register.

group of mountain climbers in front of rock cairn on the summit of Tower Mountain in the Upper Methow Mountains
Group On Tower Mtn Summit
Golden Horn, Azurite Peak, and Mt Ballard in the Upper Methow Mountains
Golden Horn, Azurite Peak, and Mt Ballard From Tower Mountain

We returned to camp at sunset and later savored a long dinner under vividly starry skies.

Day 3: Snowy Lakes to Trailhead

On Sunday, we hiked out at a leisurely pace. The day turned out to be quite warm—almost summery by the time we reached the trailhead (5.5 hours from camp). We estimated that, at this rate, it will be another week or two before the larches reach full color.

Click to enlarge…