A rock climber scrambles a steep face on Tomyhoi Peak above a glacier in the Nooksack Mountains
Eileen climbing exposed Class 3 rock face high on Tomyhoi Peak

Tomyhoi Peak via Yellow Aster Lakes—Southeast Ridge (Nooksack Mountains, WA)

Trip Date: October 14, 2006

Tomyhoi Peak Day Climb

Yellow Aster Lakes
Tomyhoi Peak (7435 ft)

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Nooksack Mountains

Area: Mt. Baker Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: Keep Kool Trailhead on Twin Lakes Road (Elev. 3150 feet)

Way Points: Yellow Aster Lakes & Tomyhoi Ridge (trail hike)

Summit: Tomyhoi Peak (trail hike & trail scramble & rock scramble via Southeast Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 14 miles traveled; 4800 feet gained & lost; 5.4 hours up; 4.9 hours down.

Full Trip Report

Eileen, Steve, and I did a climb of Tomyhoi Peak in the Nooksack Mountains on a mild fall day. We just missed the Indian Summer that visited earlier in the week; instead, we had off-and-on cloudcover, but dry weather and beautiful autumn color.

colorful autumn slopes in the Nooksack Mountains
Autumn Hillside and Rocks
Mt Baker and fall maple leaves in the Nooksack Mountains
Mt Baker and Maple Leaves

We hiked up the well-maintained trail to Yellow Aster Lakes, then followed a remarkably well-defined path along the crest of Tomyhoi Ridge.

High summit horn on Tomyhoi Peak with Yellow Aster Lake in the foreground engulfed in fall colors in the Nooksack Mountains
Tomyhoi Peak and Yellow Aster Lakes
mountain climber on the trail leading up the fall colored ridge of Tomyhoi Peak in the Nooksack Mountains
Eileen On Tomyhoi Ridge

Views were marvelous the whole way, with Canadian and American Border Peaks towering to the east.

Canadian Border Peak and American Border Peak with fall colors
Canadian Border Peak and American Border Peak

Eventually, our path faded in scree and rock above the Tomyhoi Glacier, and our climbing route became a bit confusing. After a couple false starts, we hit the right spot. This involved monkeying up a shallow moat between rock and ice to gain a pronounced notch in the jagged ridge, making a little exposed traverse around a rib, and scrambling up a V-shaped Class 3.5 slot.

mountain climbers scrambling Tomyhoi rocky ridge and glacier below with the Nooksack Mountains in the background
Eileen On Rock Crest
American Border Peak and Mt Larrabee in the background with a mountain climber scrambling the rock crest of Tomyhoi Peak
American Border Peak and Mt Larrabee From Rock Crest

Easy ledges led to the false summit, from which the summit block looks pretty steep and intimidating. It turned out to be a delightful Class 3 scramble on solid rock! We topped out circa 3:15pm.

A rock climber scrambles a steep face above the Tomyhoi Glacier heading to the summit of Tomyhoi Peak in the Nooksack Mountains
Eileen Climbing Class 3 Face

The summit register had been placed by Fay Pullen and was nearly full. Obviously, this is a fairly popular summit.

mountain climbers on the summit horn of Tomyhoi Peak in the A rock climber scrambles a steep face above the Tomyhoi Glacier heading to the summit of Tomyhoi Peak in the Nooksack Mountains
Steve and Eileen On Summit
Mt Shuksan as seen from the summit of Tomyhoi Peak in the Nooksack Mountains
Mt Shuksan From Summit

For our descent, we down-climbed our up-route, using a rope for a safety belay at the Class 3.5 slot. Later, darkness caught us at Yellow Aster Lakes, so we completed the hike out by headlamp.

Hoping to cap off a great day in the mountains, we raced down to Milano’s for dinner, but arrived 5 minutes after closing time. Not to worry though; the kindly staff packaged up salads and hot lasagna, which we devoured while sitting on their outside bench!

Route Map

Tomyhoi Peak Route Map

Click to enlarge…