Trip Date: June 12-13, 2004
North Gardner Mountain Climbing Trip
Wolf Creek Valley
Gardner Meadows
Wolf Creek Basin
North Gardner Mountain (8956 ft)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Northeastern Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Mazama Mountains
Area: Lake Chelan – Sawtooth Wilderness
Starting & Ending Point: Wolf Creek Trailhead at end of Wolf Creek Road #5005 (Elev. 2950 feet)
Way Points: Wolf Creek & North Fork Trail junction & Abernathy Trail junction & Hubbard Creek Trail junction & Gardner Meadows & Wolf Creek Basin (trail hike & off-trail hike)
Campsite: Wolf Creek Basin
Summit: North Gardner Mountain (off-trail hike & snow climb & rock scramble via Southeast Slope—South Ridge)
Approximate Stats: 27 miles traveled; 7300 feet gained & lost.
Related Posts
>>> North Gardner Mtn via Wolf Creek–Southeast Slope—South Ridge – June 2018
>>> Gardner Mountain via Wolf Creek–South Slope – October 2000
Full Trip Report
Given two full days to play, yet perhaps the most unfavorable weekend weather forecast of the spring, I headed over the passes once again. Beth and Janet joined me for an attempt on North Gardner Mountain from the southern side. Beth and I had found ourselves in that seemingly small category of people who have climbed Gardner Mountain but not its higher neighbor, whereas Janet was looking forward to her first trip into the Gardner area. We all hoped the rainshadow might bless us once more, despite the weatherman’s gloomy prediction. What we actually got was not what we had hoped for, but it was something we would long remember.
Day 1: Trailhead to Wolf Creek Basin
Just before noon, we started up the Wolf Creek Trail in pleasantly sunny and mild weather. Gradually, though, the clouds took over, and it started to rain as we passed the 7-mile mark. We tarped up our packs and bodies, and continued up to Gardner Meadows, encountering a mile-long stretch of annoying blowdowns along the way.
- Janet In Gardner Meadow
Where the meadow flattens out (about 10 miles in), we ascended off-trail grassy slopes to the north for several hundred feet, then contoured 1 mile northwestward toward Wolf Creek Basin. Staying between 6200 and 6400 feet to avoid groves of silver snags with jack-strawed deadfall, we eventually were able to drop into the soggy but cute little basin and establish a camp at 6250 feet (6.5 hours from TH).
Day 2 (AM): North Gardner Mtn. Summit Climb
Although the rain seemed to fall continuously through the night, it stopped by the time we emerged from our tents at 5:00am. We were pleased to see patches of blue sky, but somewhat alarmed to see a skiff of fresh snow on the hillsides above camp. Scrambling on snow-dusted rock wasn’t something we had bargained for. It was also very cold, so I was concerned about hard snowfields and our lack of crampons.
- Gardner Mountain From Base Camp
Agreeing to “head up and take a look,” we ascended grassy slopes into a tiny basin, from which we could see Point 8487. Both a snowfield and a screefield presented themselves as route options to the point. We kicked steps up the snowfield until it got uncomfortably hard and steep, then we clawed up scree to the ridge crest.
- Above Wolf Creek Basin
Topping out on Point 8487, we were all nearly blown off by an icy gale! This was the strongest wind I’ve experienced since the May 5, 2002 screamer that hit the Cascades.
- North Gardner Mountain Summit From South Ridge Crest
We crouched down and donned extra clothing—everything we had brought—and assessed our situation. Janet found that the wind and fresh snow were overriding her summit desires, so she decided to retreat to a sheltered spot. Beth and I decided to give it a try, with hopes that a lower-level ridge traverse might get us out of the brunt. We dropped down the west side several hundred feet and contoured under some ridge horns, then crossed back over to the east side. Graciously, the wind abated a bit, and the snowy rock didn’t present much trouble on this mostly Class 1-2 route.
- Beth Nearing Summit
Beth and I topped out together on the rime-covered summit at 9:00am (3.1 hours from camp) just as the sun started to poke through.
- Beth On North Gardner Mountain Summit
We spent about 20 minutes taking photos, gawking at mountains, and signing the register. Ours was the second entry of 2004. The wind now came only in occasional gusts, but it was still quite frigid.
- Jim and Gardner Mountain
During our descent, the sky steadily cleared and the sun grew warmer. We collected Janet and made a rapid descent to camp, first plunging down scree, then glissading down snow, then slipping down grass. We took a sunny lunch break in camp (1.5 hours from summit) before packing up and heading back to the trailhead.
- Hiking Back To Wolf Creek Valley
Day 2 (PM): Wolf Creek Basin to Trailhead
Conditions during our entire 12-mile hike out were nothing less than perfect: warm sun, cool air, springy breeze, no bugs. We were even treated to a most interesting audio presentation while passing through Gardner Meadows, where the wind blowing through the myriad silver snags sounded like the unearthly screams of 10,000 demons!
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
