Granite peaks of the Bugaboo Mountains jut through a glacial ice cap
Bugaboo Mountains viewed from Marmolata Spire summit

Central Crescent Tower via Lions Way + Marmolata Spire via East Ridge (Bugaboo Mountains, BC)

Jim Brisbine·
Canada (non-Cascades)The Early YearsCrescent Tower (Bugaboo)Marmolata Spire (Bugaboo)
·62 views

Trip Date: July 8-14, 1979

Bugaboo Mountains Climbing Week

Conrad Kain Hut
Eastpost Crags
Bugaboo Glacier
Crescent Towers: central peak aka Central Crescent Tower (~9285 ft)
Marmolata Spire (9905 ft)

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Trip Report Summary

Region: Columbia Mountains (British Columbia)

Sub-Region: Purcell Mountains

Sub-Sub-Region: Bugaboo Mountains

Area: Bugaboo Provincial Park

Starting & Ending Point: Bugaboo Spires Trailhead at end of Bugaboo Creek Road (Elev. 5000 feet)

Way Points: Bugaboo Creek & Bugaboo Creek Cirque & Conrad Kain Hut (trail hike)

Accommodations: Conrad Kain Hut (Elev. 7350 feet)

Guiding Service / Guides: Banff Alpine Guides / Kobi Wyss & Cameron Cairns

Daytrip 1: Eastpost Crags Rock Climbing

Starting & Ending Point: Conrad Kain Hut

Way Points: Eastpost Crags (off-trail hike & rock scramble)

Daytrip 2: Central Crescent Tower Summit Attempt

Starting & Ending Point: Conrad Kain Hut

Way Points: Crescent Glacier Moraine (off-trail hike & rock scramble)

Summit Attempt: Central Crescent Tower (rock climb to third pitch via Lion’s Way Route)

Daytrip 3: Bugaboo Glacier Ice Climbing 

Starting & Ending Point: Conrad Kain Hut

Way Points: Bugaboo Glacier (snow climb)

Daytrip 4: Central Crescent Tower Summit Climb

Starting & Ending Point: Conrad Kain Hut

Way Points: Crescent Glacier Moraine (off-trail hike & rock scramble)

Summit: Central Crescent Tower (rock climb via Lion’s Way Route)

Daytrip 5: Marmolata Spire Summit Climb

Starting & Ending Point: Conrad Kain Hut

Way Points: Bugaboo Glacier (snow climb)

Summit: Marmolata Spire (rock climb via East Ridge)

Area Maps

Bugaboos Provincial Park Layout Map
Bugaboos Provincial Park Schematic Map

Click to enlarge…

Bugaboo Panorama From Approach Trail
Conrad Kain Hut Rear, Bugaboo Prov Park, BC, 1979
Main Floor Of Conrad Kain Hut
Interior Of Conrad Kain Hut
Conrad Kain Hut Poster, Bugaboo Prov Park, BC, 1979
Sleeping Area In Conrad Kain Hut
Conrad Kain Hut, Bugaboo Prov Park, BC, 1979
Snowpatch Spire
Heading For Eastpost Crags On Day 2
Moraine Near Eastpost Crags
Glacial Lake Near Eastpost Crags
Clouds Over Conrad Kain Hut
Starting Up Crescent Tower On Day 3
Snowpatch Spire and Pigeon Spire
Ice Climbing On Bugaboo Glacier On Day 4
Unsettled Weather Over Snowpatch Spire
Rainbow Over Bugaboo Creek Valley, Purcell Mountains, BC
Conrad Kain Hut and Bugaboo Glacier
Climbing Crescent Tower On Day 5
Climbing Lions Way On Crescent Tower
Kobi Belaying On Lions Way Route
Looking Down Lions Way On Crescent Tower
Kobi and Jim On Crescent Tower Summit
Bugaboo Spire From Crescent Tower
Descending To Hut After Climbing Crescent Tower
Hounds Tooth and Marmolata Spire From Hut
Heading For Marmolata Spire On Day 6
Pigeon Spire Above Glacier
Sheer Granite
Heading Toward Marmolata Spire
Climbing East Ridge Of Marmolata Spire
Cam, Richard, and Jim On Marmolata Spire Summit
Foggy View From Marmolata Spire Summit
Bugaboo Mountains viewed from Marmolata Spire summit
Granite Tower
Clouds Over Glacier
Climbing Group At Conrad Kain Hut