Trip Date: August 6-14, 2021

Ptarmigan Mountains Climbing Trip & Ptarmigan Traverse:  Cascade Pass to Suiattle River

Cascade Pass
Cache Col
Kool-Aid Lake
Spider–Formidable Col
Yang Yang Lakes
Hahlakl Peak (7004 ft)
Sentinel Pass
White Rock Lakes
Spire Col
Dana–Dome Saddle
Dome Peak (8920+ ft)
Cub Lake
Bachelor Meadows

Trip Report Summary

Region: North-Central Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Ptarmigan Mountains

Areas: North Cascades National Park & Glacier Peak Wilderness

Starting Point: Eldorado Trailhead gate on Cascade River Road (Elev. 2200 feet)

Way Points: Cascade River Vehicle Bridge & Cascade Pass Trailhead (road walk); Cascade Pass & Mixup Arm & Cache Glacier & Cache Col & Kool-Aid Lake & Red Ledge & Middle Cascade Glacier & Spider–Formidable Col & Yang Yang Lakes & Hahlakl Peak summit & LeConte Pass & LeConte Glacier & Sentinel Pass & South Cascade Glacier & Lizard Pass & White Rock Lakes & Dana Glacier & Dana–Dome Saddle & Dome Glacier Bench & Itswoot Pass & Cub Lake & Cub Lake Pass & Bachelor Meadow & Bachelor Flats & Bachelor Creek & Downey Creek & Downey Creek Trailhead (trail hike & off-trail hike & rock scramble & snow climb)

High Point: Dana–Dome Saddle (Elev. 7450 feet)

Ending Point: Downey Creek Vehicle Bridge gate on Suiattle River Road (Elev. 1400 feet)

Campsites: Cascade Pass Trailhead parking lot & Kool-Aid Lake & Yang Yang Lakes & White Rock Lakes & Dana–Dome Saddle & Cub Lake & Four-Mile Camp on Downey Creek Trail

Summit: Hahlakl Peak (ascent via North Ridge; descent via South Ridge)

Sidetrip: Northwest Dana Glacier & Spire Col (rock scramble & snow climb)

Summit: Dome Peak (ascent & descent via Upper Dome Glacier—Northwest Ridge)

Approximate Total Stats (excluding sidetrips): 35 miles traveled; 13,600 feet gained; 14,400 feet lost.

Approximate Total Stats (including sidetrips): 39 miles traveled; 16,300 feet gained; 17,100 feet lost.

Related Posts

>>> Ptarmigan Traverse + Hurry-Up Peak + LeConte Mtn + Old Guard Peak + Dome Peak — August 2012

>>> Downey Creek Loop + Mt Bruseth + Sentinel Peak + Spire Point + Dome Peak – June 2005

>>> Ptarmigan Traverse + Magic Mountain – September 1981

Trip Overview

How many logistical hassles, technical problems, weather issues, and personnel injuries can you encounter in one mountaineering trip while still considering it successful? Eileen, Brooke, Doug, Todd, Kellie, and I, along with our veteran ground man Jim A, unwittingly tried to answer this question during a recent Ptarmigan Traverse—the ultra-famous alpine trek from Cascade Pass to the Suiattle River. Perhaps we persevered only because this was a dream trip for Eileen and a bucket-list trip for the others; we were a highly motivated group indeed!

As the trip architect, Eileen originally planned an extended seven-day version of the traditional traverse; rather than exiting at Downey Creek, she laid out a scenic route that would take us over Sinister Col, Totem Pass, and Miners Pass to Image Lake, then down the Suiattle River. However, this plan was thwarted when we discovered that both the Downey Creek Trail and Suiattle River Trail were closed due to a 2020 forest fire. Undaunted, Eileen went back to the map table and devised an even longer eight-day route that would take us over Suiattle Pass, Cloudy Pass, and Spider Gap, then out Phelps Creek. To eliminate an onerous car shuttle, she arranged for van rentals and drivers to handle pick-up and drop-off chores (a three-month process in itself).

When rainy weather appeared in the forecast a week before our planned departure, we delayed our start by one day. That would allow us to avoid some—but not all—of the rain. Unfortunately, it also meant that our van rental and driver arrangements had to be completely redone. The result was frustrating: we procured a van and driver to handle our drop-off, but our pick-up details were left unresolved. Although none of us liked the idea of embarking on a weeklong mountaineering traverse without having a firm pick-up plan in place, we forged ahead and hoped to sort out the details en-route by using a satellite texter. Our collective feeling was that we go now or never.

Once our trip began, it became very apparent that all of the snowfields and glaciers were in a shockingly poor condition—no doubt due to the recent bouts of unusually hot weather. Eileen and I had completed the Ptarmigan Traverse during the same week in 2012 and were amazed at the difference in route conditions. This year’s conditions made for slower progress and, in many locations, difficult travel. Every day of our traverse involved a variety of unexpected challenges. Ultimately, we gained more injuries than summits and had several close-calls, but everyone was smiling in the end. For me personally, it felt quite satisfying to complete this classic route exactly 40 years after my first Ptarmigan Traverse.

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Full Trip Report

Day 0: Eldorado Trailhead to Cascade Pass Trailhead

Among the many logistical snags that plagued our trip was the abrupt rainstorm-induced closure of the Cascade River Road at Eldorado Creek. The road had been washed out where it crosses Boston, Morning Star, and Midas Creeks in quick succession; it was open to pedestrians but not vehicles. This meant that Derek, our designated van driver, had to drop us off in the Eldorado parking lot, leaving us with a 3-mile road walk on “Day Zero.” We began our walk on a warm, humid Friday evening and arrived at the Cascade Pass Trailhead well after dark (1.5 hours + 3.3 miles + 1500 feet from starting gate). We pitched our three tents in the empty parking lot and went to sleep.

Day 1: Cascade Pass Trailhead to Kool-Aid Lake

The predicted rainfall started at 3:00am and continued intermittently all day. In a futile effort to avoid getting drenched, we got packed up inside the trailhead restroom before heading up the trail at 8:30am. It was not an auspicious beginning.

We reached Cascade Pass in late morning (2.6 hours + 1750 feet from TH) and proceeded up toward Mixup Arm on the climber’s path. The big erosion gully below Mixup Peak was as ugly as ever, but we crossed it without incident and then negotiated the Cache Glacier in a dense fog. Although there were general feelings of misery among our group, most of those faded upon reaching Cache Col (6.3 hours + 3500 feet from TH).

Partial clearing to the south gave us hope of improving weather, but it was a false hope. We hiked down to Kool-Aid Lake and established Camp 1 in late afternoon (7.8 hours + 5.7 miles + 3600 feet from TH). Tents were quickly pitched during a brief pause in the rain, then we spent the rest of the day cowering inside as the rain picked up again.

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Day 2: Kool-Aid Lake Layover

Intermittent rain continued throughout the morning and did not ease up until mid-afternoon. We stayed in our tents all day, fighting tedium and venturing out only briefly between rain showers. Even after the rain stopped for good, Kool-Aid Lake remained shrouded in dense fog. Group morale was low, and food consumption was already being adjusted to account for an extra day in our schedule.

Day 3: Kool-Aid Lake to Yang Yang Lakes

Upon awaking at 6:00am, we were disappointed to still be enveloped in dense fog, but a hint of blue sky overhead gave us enough encouragement to head out. By the time we were packed up at 9:00am, the fog had completely retreated into the valley, leaving us with a clear sky. It was a glorious image!

With renewed spirits, we left Kool-Aid Lake and traversed over toward the infamous Red Ledge. Access to the ledge used to be fairly simple, but the diminishing snowpack has exposed a Class 3-4 rock face that must now be surmounted. Kellie led up this face and installed a fixed line for the rest of us to use.

The Red Ledge took us around the flank of Art’s Knoll, then we continued traversing toward the Middle Cascade Glacier. The massive north face of Mt. Formidable got closer with every step, and Brooke declared this to be the most awe-inspiring mountain scene she’s ever witnessed—high praise for someone who has circumnavigated Mont Blanc!

We roped up for our ascent of the Middle Cascade Glacier, which exhibited more crevasses and exposed ice than I’ve seen on any of my previous visits. Nonetheless, the Spider-Formidable Col was readily reached by mid-afternoon (6.2 hours + 1600 feet from Camp 1).

From the Spider-Form Col, we scrambled down 50 feet of loose rock, then made a roped down-climb of a steep snowfinger. Eileen led the descent on crampon frontpoints, placing two pickets along the way, followed by Kellie, Brooke, me, Doug, and Todd. This protected down-climb was a bit slow, and we constantly had to dodge numerous small rocks that were spontaneously falling from the cliffs of Spider Mountain above. These rocks seemed annoying but not dangerous.

Shortly after I passed the middle of the snowfinger, Doug shouted “ROCK!” loudly, and I could tell by the urgency in his voice that it was a big one. Not wanting to risk getting hit in the face, I ducked my head and hunched my shoulders. One second later, WHAM! A melon-size rock slammed into my right knee and knocked me off my frontpoints. I slid down the snowfinger until the rope came taut, and I instantly felt a surge of pain in my knee. Aaaghh! I slowly made my way down to the bottom of the snowfinger, where Eileen, Brooke, and Kellie were waiting.

A quick examination of my knee revealed a painful bruise and a small laceration but no obvious joint damage. We had a group discussion about our options: do we go back or go forward? I had serious doubts about my ability to continue, but the thought of backing out of this marvelous traverse and depriving my comrades of their bucket-list experience was unacceptable; we would go forward. Everybody divided up a large portion of my pack load, and we continued on to Yang Yang Lakes.

For the next 2 hours, we contoured around the head of Flat Creek and then descended to the verdant parkland of Yang Yang Lakes, arriving in early evening (9.8 hours + 4.2 miles + 1800 feet from Camp 1). Camp 2 was established near the lake outlet, with views north to Spider Mountain and south to Old Guard Peak. I spent time icing my knee and hoping for minimal swelling overnight.

Day 4: Yang Yang Lakes to White Rock Lakes

I awoke at 7:00am and was pleased to find that my knee was stiff and sore but not immobile; there had been very little overnight swelling. Our traverse would continue! The others took part of my load again today, and we all headed up toward LeConte Ridge. Our ascent began with a hike up through steep heather, then transitioned to Class 2-3 rock.

Upon reaching the ridge crest, we followed a well-defined path southward over 7004-foot Hahlakl Peak and down to LeConte Pass. A long traverse across a series of rock ribs and snowfields on the eastern flank of LeConte Mountain ended at the northwestern corner of the LeConte Glacier. We were dismayed to see that the entire lower part of the glacier was an uninviting shield of blue ice! Could we somehow bypass this ice shield? Kellie and I made a reconnaissance jaunt over to the glacier and got an answer: no; we would need to climb the ice shield.

Being the only person in our group with steel crampons (everyone else had aluminum crampons), I got tagged to lead our rope up the glacier. I placed one picket at the start and then two ice screws as I angled across the shield. Things were going well until Doug rolled his ankle on a furrow and went sliding headfirst down the ice! Miraculously, he missed all of the boulders perched on the glacier surface before being caught by the rope. He came away without a scratch, but it was a scary moment for everybody and a reminder to constantly stay on guard.

We finished climbing up the ice shield with no more drama and then easily ascended the upper, softer part of the glacier. In late afternoon, we gained 7300-foot Sentinel Pass (7.4 hours + 2700 feet) and crossed over to the western side of the crest. There, we made a 1-mile rock-and-snow traverse below Sentinel Peak and high above the South Cascade Glacier. This traverse is marked by numerous stone ducks and ends at a concrete post with a camera or optical surveying instrument mounted on top—presumably installed by the USGS for some geological research project.

From the survey post, we dropped 200 feet to the South Cascade Glacier and then booted back up to Lizard Pass (9.8 hours + 3000 feet from Camp 2). White Rock Lakes was visible 600 feet below, and Dome Peak stood 3 miles to the south—both basking in the evening sun.

The descent to White Rock Lakes normally involves a fairly quick snow plunge. Now, however, most of the snow was gone, leaving us with steep dirt covered by loose rocks. We had a slow, unpleasant descent with many slips and falls, such that we didn’t reach the lakes until nearly 8:00pm (10.8 hours + 5.0 miles + 3000 feet from Camp 2). It had been an unexpectedly long day, but the incredible views from these lakes made it all worthwhile.

Day 5: White Rock Lakes to Dana–Dome Saddle + Spire Col

In anticipation of a long day, we were up at 5:45am and on the move by 7:50am. The morning alpenglow on all peaks and glaciers across the West Fork Agnes Creek cirque portended a great day, and I was happy to be carrying my full pack load again.

We followed a bootpath down from camp, across the cirque, and up toward the polished slabs of the Dana Glacier bench. The path led us across heather slopes, talus bands, flower fields, and rushing streams.

Just before reaching the northwestern edge of the glacier, we dropped packs on a rock outcrop (3.5 hours + 1000 feet from Camp 3). Todd, Kellie, Brooke, Eileen, and I headed up toward Spire Point, first scrambling up slabby rock and later cramponing up the glacier.

Our hope was to climb Spire Point today, but once again the glacier conditions proved to be unfavorable. Where there is normally an easy transition from snow to rock, we found steep ice abutting a long rubble slope. As a consolation, we scrambled up the rock ridge near Spire Col and took in fabulous scenery to the south.

After rejoining Doug at our backpack stash, we all roped up and headed southeast on the lower Dana Glacier. Our route took us across a low-angle ice shield, up some Class 2-3 rock slabs, and diagonally over a moderately inclined ice shield (using ice screws for protection). Beyond the ice, we easily booted up the large glacial basin toward the Dana-Dome Saddle.

We gained the broad 7450-foot saddle in early evening and established Camp 4 on level snow (7.3 hours + 2.8 miles + 2200 feet from Camp 3 excluding sidetrip; 10.8 hours + 4.2 miles + 3400 feet including sidetrip). The mountain vistas and soft lighting were fantastic, and the weather was unusually warm and calm for such a high, exposed location. As a bonus, there was a small stream 200 yards below camp.

Day 6 (AM): Dome Peak Summit Climb

It was a great disappointment to wake up and see that thick wildfire smoke had drifted in during the night, thereby reducing visibility to barely over 1 mile. Our mood was a bit somber as we broke camp and headed up the Dome Glacier. Today’s itinerary called for climbing Dome Peak, then dropping onto the Chikamin Glacier and traversing over Sinister Col to reach Hanging Gardens. We gained the high Chikamin-Dome Col 2 hours later and prepared summit packs.

Yet again, the current snow conditions were poorly suited for climbing. Instead of a moderately inclined snow slope leading up to Dome Peak’s summit ridge, we were faced with a huge, icy, wind cirque and 400 feet of dirty, shattered rock. It was sufficiently unappealing to turn Todd back after 200 feet, while the rest of us kept groveling upward. This was my fourth ascent of Dome Peak and by far the most difficult.

Upon reaching the summit ridge, normal conditions resumed and fun climbing ensued. Kellie enthusiastically strung a handline along the ridge crest, which features easy but highly exposed Class 4 scrambling on golden granite. We were all on top shortly before noon (3.8 hours + 1400 feet from Camp 4).

Nobody had signed into the summit register this year, which is very unusual for such an extremely popular peak, but it was not totally unexpected given the Downey Creek Trail closure. The lack of a pencil in the register tube might have also been a factor (I did leave a pencil of my own).

We scrambled back along the summit ridge and then set up a 100-foot rappel down the broken rock slope. While others completed their rappels, I ventured out to the edge of the north face to eyeball conditions on the Chikamin Glacier. As I had feared, there was a large bergschrund across the top of the glacier, with only a narrow ice rib spanning the crack. It was not a feasible situation for our group, especially given our schedule and gear. We now needed a new plan.

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Day 6 (PM): Dana–Dome Saddle to Cub Lake

After regrouping at the high col and then descending to the Dana-Dome Saddle, we discussed our options. It was quickly decided that we would bail out through Cub Lake, Bachelor Creek, and Downey Creek—the conventional exit route for most Ptarmigan Traverse parties. Subsequent phone calls to the Darrington Ranger Station (yes, there really is cell phone reception at the Dana-Dome Saddle) informed us that the Suiattle River Road was open to Downey Creek and that only the last mile or so of the Downey Creek Trail was affected by last year’s forest fire. We also obtained official permission to hike out the closed trail (not that we needed permission in a pinch like this, but it did ease our collective conscience). At the same time, Eileen sent out satellite texts to Jim A, our savvy ground man, so that he could arrange a new pick-up location and time. Modern technology sure becomes invaluable at a time like this!

Our afternoon trek over to Itswoot Pass should have been a straightforward 2-hour traverse on snow and heather, but the minimal snow remaining here left us with large fields of talus and scree. The first part was a frustratingly slow and sketchy descent of horribly loose rocks. Brooke glissaded down one of the few snow patches and suffered a large, painful, hand-size abrasion on her buttocks. Adding insult to injury, she was obliged to bend over for 15 minutes while Eileen and Kellie meticulously applied multiple bandages to her wound. (No, I did not subject Brooke to the indignity of photographic evidence.)

Travel improved once we made our way down to the Dome Glacier bench, where we picked up a good path heading to Itswoot Pass. We then descended to Cub Lake and established Camp 5 (4.5 hours + 2.3 miles + 400 feet from Camp 4 excluding sidetrip; 11.6 hours + 4.8 miles + 1900 feet including sidetrip). Spirits were surprisingly high at this point, considering that we were executing a bail-out plan; I suppose it was the relief of knowing we now had a reliable exit strategy.

Day 7: Cub Lake to Downey Creek Camp

We awoke to more smoky skies and were on the move before 8:30am. The 500-foot hike up to Cub Lake Pass was a rude start, but it was followed by a fairly pleasant hike down to Bachelor Meadow and farther down to dense forest in Bachelor Flats (2.6 hours + 550 feet from Camp Camp 5). There, we crossed Bachelor Creek on a footlog and then continued downstream on a well-beaten climber’s path that first took us through forest and later through thick brush. In keeping with the theme of our trip, Eileen and Doug encountered a wasp nest and received multiple stings.

The climber’s path soon intersected the old Bachelor Creek Trail, which continued down through alternating bands of forest and brush. Progress here was hindered by three new avalanche swaths that swept through forest bands and left a chaotic mess of jack-straw trees. The poor trail conditions were compounded by high heat and humidity. By the time we reached Downey Creek in mid-afternoon (6.8 hours from Camp 5), we were hot, tired, and drenched with sweat.

After a long break in the shade at the confluence of Bachelor Creek and Downey Creek, we headed south on the Downey Creek Trail. Now making better progress, we strolled into “Four-Mile Camp,” an informal but comfortable trailside campsite, at 5:50pm (9.5 hours + 7.5 miles + 800 feet from Camp 5). Everyone rushed down to the creek to cool off and clean up before dinner.

Day 8: Downey Creek Camp to Downey Creek Vehicle Bridge

We awoke at 7:00am and had a leisurely breakfast, knowing that we were less than 4 miles from the Suiattle River Road. Surely, today’s exit hike would be quick and easy, right? Nope. Within a minute of leaving camp, we encountered a huge log across the trail. That log was followed by another log, then thick brush, then another log, then a nettle field, then more logs. It was actually a relief to enter the burned forest zone 2 miles later. For the most part, the burned portion of trail was clear and open. That changed, however, in the final ½ mile of trail, which was completely obliterated by the fire and crossed by fallen trees.

The Suiattle River Road eventually came into view, and we all got a surge of excitement. Naturally, this spelled trouble. While crawling over one last log a scant 5 feet from the road shoulder, Doug tumbled off in a dramatic crash and grabbed his leg in pain. Thankfully, he didn’t suffer any lacerations or broken bones but will likely have a nice bruise. I considered it to be a textbook example of proxitermisfortune—the tendency for bad things to occur very close to the termination of any journey.

We finished our long trek with a short march across the Downey Creek Bridge at 12:30pm (3.2 hours + 3.7 miles + 250 feet from Camp 6). Everybody had time to clean up in the creek before Rolf arrived at 1:30pm and Derek arrived an hour later. It had not been the Ptarmigan Traverse that Eileen had planned or that any of us had expected, but it most certainly was an unforgettable alpine experience!

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Route Maps & Profiles

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Photo Gallery

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