October 6-7, 2001
Middle Cowlitz Chimney Climbing Trip
Fryingpan Creek
Summer Land aka Summerland
Fryingpan Lakes
Panhandle Gap
Banshee Peak (7400’+)
Middle Cowlitz Chimney (7421′)
——————– Trip Report Summary ——————–
Region: Southern Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Mt. Rainier Massif
Area: Mt. Rainier National Park
Starting & Ending Point: Fryingpan Creek Trailhead (Sunrise Road)
Way Points: Fryingpan Creek & Summer Land & Fryingpan Lakes & Panhandle Gap & Panhandle Flats (trail hike & off-trail hike)
Campsite: Panhandle Flats
Summit: Banshee Peak (ascent via West Slope; descent via East Ridge)
Summit: Middle Cowlitz Chimney (ascent & descent via South Face)
Approximate Stats: 16 miles traveled; 5000 feet gained & lost.
——————– Related Posts ——————–
Middle & Main Cowlitz Chimneys – August 14, 2018
Main Cowlitz Chimney via Southwest Face—South Chute – August 23, 2003
——————– Full Trip Report By Laura Zimmerman ——————-
Day 1 (AM) – Trailhead to Panhandle Flats:
Jim and I arrived at the Fryingpan Creek Trailhead in Mt. Rainier National Park at 8:30 Saturday morning. It was pleasantly cool, a good day for hiking. The trail (part of the Wonderland Trail) is immaculate – wide enough to drive a golf cart the first several miles. We met up with a large group on a day-hike to Summerland. When we arrived at Summerland, Mt. Rainier could be seen through the swirling clouds, basking in the sun above.
We continued on to Panhandle Gap, then traversed east and made camp at about 6500 feet on a nice, flat gravelly saddle between the gap and Banshee Peak.
- Camp At Panhandle Flats
Day 1 (PM) – Summit Climbs:
After we set up camp, Jim and I loaded up our summit packs for a reconnaissance trip to the Chimneys. I wasn’t up for the more technical Main Chimney as planned, but we figured we could at least look at the area. We hiked up to the top of Banshee Peak, a glamorous alpine stroll that took about 45 minutes from camp. The view from Banshee was fantastic – the clouds continued to billow and swirl around Mt. Rainier in the distance. Closer at hand, we could see that the route up the Middle Chimney was probably not that technical. We decided to scramble up the Middle Chimney and forego the intimidating Main Chimney.
- Hiking Up Middle Cowlitz Chimney
The traverse from Banshee Peak to the Middle Chimney is simple and straightforward. A faint climber’s path is visible across the scree and dirt slopes at about elevation 7000 feet. There are numerous possibilities to ascend the Middle Chimney, all of them involving a reasonable traverse across loose scree slopes to the rock bands, and then Class 2-3 scrambling on generally sound rock with minor exposure to the summit. It is a delightful scramble, and the view of the Main Chimney, Mount Rainier, and Little Tahoma was incredible.
- Little Tahoma Peak From Middle Chimney
It took us 45 minutes to summit the Middle Chimney (1.7 hours from camp) after leaving Banshee Peak’s summit.
- Main Cowlitz Chimney From Middle Chimney
Day 2 – Panhandle Flats to Trailhead
It was cold that night – at dusk there was a cold breeze, but by morning it became very still. Condensation froze to the inside of our tent. The billowy, low-altitude clouds of yesterday were replaced by high, heavy overcast that concealed the summit of Mt Adams to the south. Mt. Rainier had a lenticular cloud cap over the summit, and the rest of the mountain was shrouded in cloud. However, Little Tahoma stood out prominently. The sky reminded me of a winter sky – heavy with snow.
On our way out, we spotted four mountain goats: a mom and kid heading down for food and water just below our camp, and another pair heading up a small peak near Panhandle Gap. While we watched the goats, I noticed an occasional spit of frozen precipitation. Winter is coming.
————– Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) ——————–
