Trip Date: July 13, 2008
Lundin Peak Day Climb
Commonweath Basin
Lundin Basin
Lundin Peak (6057 ft)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Central Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Snoqualmie Range
Area: Alpine Lakes Wilderness
Starting & Ending Point: Snoqualmie Pass / PCT-Northbound Trailhead off Interstate-90 at Exit 52 (Elev. 3000 feet)
Way Points: Commonwealth Basin Trail junction & Commonwealth Basin & Commonwealth Creek crossing & Lundin Basin & West Lundin Ridge saddle & Lundin Peak summit & East Lundin Ridge notch & Lundin Basin (trail hike & bushwhack & snow climb & rock scramble)
Summit: Lundin Peak (snow climb & rock scramble via South Couloir—West Ridge; descent via Upper Southeast Ridge—South Chute)
Approximate Stats: 8.4 miles traveled; 3400 feet gained & lost; 4.8 hours up; 2.4 hours down.
Related Post
>>> Lundin Peak via Red Pass—Southeast Ridge – September 2023
Full Trip Report
Lundin Peak is a small but craggy landform situated between Snoqualmie Mountain and Red Mountain closely north of Snoqualmie Pass. As viewed from Interstate-90 and other southern vantage points, it comprises three separate rock horns that get successively bulkier and taller from right to left (east to west). The westernmost horn is the true 6057-foot summit.
Lundin Peak makes a worthy climbing objective thanks to easy access, interesting navigation, and solid rock. Incidentally, Cascade Alpine Guide states that the mountain is composed of granodiorite associated with the Snoqualmie Batholith, but I believe this is incorrect; the texture and bedding are actually consistent with the volcanic rhyolites and andesites and meta-sedimentary rocks found at other nearby peaks such as Mt. Thomson and Guye Peak.
There are at least three non-technical or semi-technical routes on Lundin Peak, all accessible from Interstate-90. These include the full southeast ridge, which is approached from Red Pass (probably the most popular route); the upper southeast ridge, which is approached from Lundin Basin via the south chute (a good early-season route); and the west ridge, which can be approached from Lundin Basin or Snoqualmie Mountain (often combined with a descent of either southeast ridge route for an adventurous summit traverse).
Jon and I took advantage of a sunny day and good snowcover to complete a traverse over the summit of Lundin Peak, going up the west ridge and down the upper southeast ridge. Starting at Snoqualmie Pass, we hiked up the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) for 2½ miles and then down to Commonwealth Basin. This approach gave us a clear view of the peak, including our planned ascent and descent routes.
.
We hiked up through Commonwealth Basin toward Red Pass until reaching an elevation of 4200 feet, then veered off to the left and contoured through Lundin Basin. Next, we climbed a broad snow couloir below the peak’s steep south face, eventually gaining the west ridge at an obvious saddle.
.
The west ridge consists of large blocks and small horns with no obvious route. It is rated as Class 4, so we roped up and began working our way upward, wandering back and forth across the narrow crest. A few slings and chocks provided protection along the way. The rock was surprisingly solid, and the climbing was enjoyable, with moderate exposure but never too difficult.
.
We reached the summit in early afternoon (4.8 hours + 3400 feet from TH) and soaked up the great views in all directions.
.
.
.
Continuing our traverse, we made one rappel down the upper southeast ridge and then scrambled down to a deep notch in the ridge crest. From this notch, we booted down the snow-filled south chute to intersect our up-track in Lundin Basin.
.
.
We were back at the trailhead in mid-afternoon (2.4 hours from summit) to end a fun and satisfying day of local alpine climbing.
Route Map & Profile & Sketch
…
…
…
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
