Trip Date: August 10-11, 2020
Gunn Peak Climbing Trip
Barclay Creek
Tailgunner Pass
Gunn Basin
Gunn Peak (6240′)
Tailgunner Infinity Tarn
Trip Report Summary
Region: North-Central Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Skykomish Mountains
Area: Wild Sky Wilderness
Starting & Ending Point: Barclay Creek Spur Road junction on Barclay Creek Road (Elev. 2200 feet)
Way Points: Barclay Creek crossing & Tailgunner Ravine & Tailgunner Meadows & Tailgunner Pass & Upper Gunn Basin (bushwhack & off-trail hike & rock scramble)
Campsite: Gunn Point bench (Elev. 5450 feet)
Sidetrip: Gunn Point Saddle (off-trail hike & rock scramble)
Sidetrip: Lower Gunn Basin & Gunn Lake Saddle (off-trail hike & rock scramble)
Summit: Gunn Peak (rock scramble via Southwest Couloir—South Face—East Ridge)
Sidetrip: Tailgunner Infinity Tarn (off-trail hike & rock scramble)
Approximate Stats: 6 miles traveled; 4700 feet gained & lost.
Related Posts
East Gunn Peak + Gunn Point + Tailgunner Peak + Wing Peak – June 2020
Gunnshy Peak via Southeast Slope – March 2015
Tailgunner Peak + Gunn Point – May 2009
Gunn Peak via South Face—East Ridge – June 2002
Full Trip Report
After getting stymied on Gunn Peak in June due to an exceptionally heavy snowpack, Eileen and I returned in August for another try. What a difference two months can make! This time, we had no problems gaining the summit, and we also performed some much-needed maintenance of the approach route.
Day 1: Barclay Creek Road to Gunn Basin
We parked alongside the Barclay Creek Road and walked down the short spur road that leads to Barclay Creek. There were no visible logs across the creek, but a low flow volume allowed for an easy rock-hop crossing. We aimed for the climbers’ path, which begins adjacent to the down-stream tip of a small mid-channel island.
Once on the climbers’ path, we followed it westward for a short distance and then northward as it heads uphill. Surprisingly, what had been a mess of fallen limbs and logs in June was now a reasonably clear path, thanks to a steady dose of foot traffic. Nonetheless, I was able to get extensive use out of my little handsaw by cutting dozens of nuisance branches.
We took a snack break on an inviting rock knob at 3600 feet (1.9 hours + 1350 feet from car) before continuing up to the cliff base and then traversing rightward across the now-dry waterfall ravine.
The well-beaten climbers’ path sliced upward through a field of ferns and alders, always staying close to the cliff base. At 4400 feet, where the “spring route” charges ahead into Tailgunner Couloir, our “summer route” curved back to the left and ascended a brushy weakness in the cliff band. The afternoon was heating up, so we stopped for another break at a 4550-foot bouldery vista (4.1 hours + 2200 feet from car).
From our bouldery vista, the brushy path turned right and proceeded steeply uphill. My handsaw stayed busy all the while, opening up the narrow passageway as we slowly gained elevation. Ferns, slide alder, and scrub cedar gradually yielded to huckle-heather meadows dotted with light-gray rocks.
We reached 5400-foot Tailgunner Pass at 6:00pm (6.5 hours + 3200 feet from car). Our search for a suitable camping spot ended on a 5450-foot bench on the southeastern rib of Gunn Point, overlooking upper Gunn Basin.
While we were setting up our camp, two young men came hiking up from lower Gunn Basin. They were just returning from an unsuccessful attempt to climb of Gunn Peak and were heading to their campsite across the upper basin.
Day 2 (AM): Gunn Peak Summit Climb
After a calm night, we awoke to clear skies and were heading for Gunn Peak at 7:30am.
From camp, a vague path took us down to lower Gunn Basin and then over to Gunn Lake Saddle.
We ascended large talus blocks to the Class 3-4 hidden ramp, which Eileen led using several slings for protection.
We crossed two remnant snowpatches on the upper south face and then scrambled up to a high notch between the west (main) and east peaks.
Our June attempt ended abruptly at this high notch, due to steep snow on the extremely exposed north face. Today, the north face was an easy Class 2 traverse on a heather ledge. We did, however, install a handline for protection.
A short Class 3 scramble delivered us to the prominent summit (2.3 hours + 1000 feet from camp), where we appreciated mild, calm weather and good visibility. A register notebook contained in a water bottle showed several ascents during the past two weeks, but none before July 25.
We descended by the same route, making one short rappel over the hidden ramp, and were back in camp shortly after noon (1.6 hours + 150 feet from summit).
Day 2 (PM): Gunn Basin to Barclay Creek Road + Infinity Tarn
After breaking camp, we made a short sidetrip over to the popular Tailgunner Infinity Tarn for lunch. This little pool of shallow water, perched on a high rock bench below Tailgunner Peak’s summit, is a photographer’s favorite.
Our afternoon descent of the climbers’ path benefitted greatly from the trimming and cutting that I had done while coming up yesterday. It was about as much fun as a steep, sketchy, toe-crunching descent can be! We arrived at our car shortly after 5:00pm (3.5 hours + 100 feet from Tailgunner Pass), knowing that there would be at least one more trip to Gunn Basin in our future.
Route Map
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
