Trip Date: November 4, 2019
2019 UTAH ADVENTURE VACATION
Great West Canyon Exploration: Grapevine Wash to The Subway
Grapevine Wash
Great West Canyon (Left Fork of North Creek channel)
Great West Amphitheater
The Subway
Trip Report Summary
Region: Utah
Sub-Region: Southwestern Utah
Area: Zion National Park
Starting & Ending Point: Left Fork Trailhead on Kolob Terrace Road (Elev. 5080 feet)
Way Points: Grapevine Wash & Great West Canyon invert / Left Fork North Creek & Great West Amphitheater & The Subway (trail hike & rock scramble & creek wade)
Low Point: Lowest crossing of Left Fork North Creek (Elev. 4670 feet)
Turnaround Point: The Subway (Elev. 5350 feet)
Invert: Great West Canyon (up & back traverse of lower segment)
Approximate Stats: 7.1 miles traveled; 1350 feet gained & lost; 3.6 hours up; 3.1 hours down.
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Full Trip Report
Zion National Park is flush with technical canyoneering routes, and one of the most classic outings is a “top-down” traverse through Great West Canyon on the Kolob Plateau. This canyon has been carved out by the Left Fork of North Creek, and it includes an amazing erosional feature called The Subway—so named because it is shaped very much like a subway tunnel. Eileen and I were not equipped for such a technical endeavor on our Zion vacation, but fortunately for us and many others in this situation, there is an excellent non-technical “bottom-up” route to The Subway.
While issuing us our pre-purchased backcountry permit at the Zion Visitor Center, a humorless park ranger warned us that we were getting a late start and recommended that we be prepared for a bivouac. Hmmm…our planned casual day-hike suddenly turned into a serious undertaking. However, it was a beautifully clear day that demanded a worthy adventure, so off we went.
We drove out Kolob Terrace Road to the Left Fork Trailhead and started hiking across Grapevine Wash shortly before noon. Great West Canyon soon came into view to the northeast.
A steep trail (more accurately, a steep canyoneers path) led us down to a signed junction near the shore of Left Fork North Creek in the canyon invert (0.6 hours + 50 feet from TH).
From the junction sign, we started hiking upstream on a well-traveled trail that winds through a pleasant forest of junipers, cottonwoods, and tall grass.
Trail conditions range from very good to very rough, and there are numerous places where it is necessary to scramble over or around boulders and outcrops. In addition, the trail crosses the creek many times. On this November day, most crossings were only ankle deep, but a few were above our knees.
Working our way upstream, we were continually presented with interesting scenery: tranquil pools, noisy waterfalls, angular boulders, flat ledges, and towering cliffs. The approach to The Subway offers its own rewards.
After several miles of delightful hiking, we came into a great amphitheater that had been scooped out by the creek over thousands of years. The sandstone bedrock here exhibited remarkable colors, textures, and layering.
Just around a corner from Great West Amphitheater, we came upon the day’s feature presentation: The Subway (3.6 hours + 900 feet from TH).
Our pace slowed as we approached the entrance to this incredibly cylindrical cavern, as though we were stepping into a hallowed temple. The super-slippery creek bed played a part too.
Upon walking into the dark interior, it becomes obvious how this feature got named The Subway. I would not have been totally surprised to see a train pull up and unload several canyoneers.
Although we were tempted to stay longer, the sinking sun reminded us to head back. We retraced our up-route as best we could but still managed to lose the trail several times. Evening sunlight was gilding the canyon walls by the time we climbed onto the plateau, and we reached the trailhead only minutes before dark (3.1 hours + 450 feet from The Subway). No bivouac needed.
Gear Comments
Because the bottom-up approach to The Subway involves a lot of trail hiking and numerous creek crossings, selecting appropriate footwear presents a bit of a conundrum. We felt that our best bet was some sort of compromise between wet and dry conditions. Eileen elected to wear “water shoes,” whereas I elected to wear “desert trekking shoes.” In the end, we were both satisfied with our choices. Aside from proper footwear, we found that trekking poles were extremely useful as an aid to crossing the creek numerous times.
Route Maps & Profile
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Photo Gallery
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