July 4-6, 1975

Glacier Peak Climbing Trip

White Chuck River
Kennedy Guard Station / Kennedy Hot Springs
Boulder Basin
Glacier Peak aka DaKobed (10,541′)

—————– Trip Report Summary —————–

Region: North-Central Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Glacier Peak Massif

Area: Glacier Peak Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: White Chuck Trailhead (White Chuck River Road)

Way Points: White Chuck River & Pumice Creek & Glacier Creek & Kennedy Creek & Kennedy Guard Station & Kennedy Hot Springs & Sitkum Creek (trail hike)

Campsites: Sitkum Creek Camp & Kennedy Guard Station Camp

Sidetrip: Boulder Basin (off-trail hike)

Summit: Glacier Peak (ascent & descent via Sitkum Glacier—Sitkum Hogback)

Approximate Stats: 21 miles traveled; 8500 feet gained & lost.

—————– Related Posts —————–

Glacier Peak Carry-Over Loop + Black Mtn + Kololo Peak – August 10, 2013
Glacier Peak via Lower Kennedy Glacier—Frostbite Ridge – July 3, 2000
Glacier Peak attempt via Ptarmigan Glacier—Frostbite Ridge – September 18, 1995

—————– Full Trip Report —————–

Over a sunny Independence Day Weekend, I climbed Glacier Peak with a large group from Wenatchee led by Bill Asplund. We approached the mountain via the White Chuck River Trail, which took us up to Kennedy Guard Station.

Kennedy Guard Station was a busy place, with hordes of day-hikers, backpackers, and climbers milling about. The amenities here included a ranger cabin, a campground, and a hot spring.

We continued southward past Kennedy Guard Station until reaching the Pacific Crest Trail, then we turned northward and hiked up to Sitkum Creek. A nice campsite here served as our base camp for the climb.

The next morning, we ascended a steep climber’s path to Boulder Basin, where several other climbing parties were camped. Here, we donned crampons and headed up the Sitkum Glacier. The sky was clear, and snow conditions were firm.

Our route ascended to the Sitkum Hogback before turning right and making a final climb to the summit.

Climbing Upper Sitkum Glacier Above Hogback

There was a festive atmosphere on the summit due to the presence of 25 or more climbers celebrating their success. The register was contained in a cast-aluminum “Mazama box.”

Young mountain climber on the summit of Glacier Peak with snowy mountains in the background — Jim On Glacier Peak Summit

After returning to our base camp at Sitkum Creek, we packed up and hiked back to Kennedy Guard Station, where we spent our second night at the spacious campground. This ultra-popular backcountry mecca hosted countless thousands of hikers and climbers for decades until it was completely destroyed in 2003 by a massive floodwater deposit coming down the White Chuck River.

Setting Up Camp At Kennedy Guard Station

…

————— Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) —————-

Glacier Peak via White Chuck River—Kennedy Hot Springs—Sitkum Glacier (North-Central Cascades, WA)

Glacier Peak Climbing Trip

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