Trip Date: September 26-27, 2018

Washington Pass Alpine Cragging Trip

Liberty Bowl
Concord–Lexington Col
Concord Tower (7560’+)
Lexington Tower (7560’+)

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northeastern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Washington Pass Mountains

Area: North Cascades Scenic Highway Corridor

Campsite: Lone Fir Campground on Highway 20

Daytrip 1: Concord Tower Summit Climb

Starting & Ending Point: Blue Lake Trailhead on Highway 20 (Elev. 5400 feet)

Way Points: Liberty Bowl & Concord–Lexington Col (trail hike & rock scramble)

Summit: Concord Tower (rock climb via East Side of South Face; descent via South Face)

Approximate Daytrip Stats: 6 miles traveled; 2300 feet gained & lost; 6.0 hours up; 3.2 hours down.

Daytrip 2: Lexington Tower Summit Climb

Starting & Ending Point: Blue Lake Trailhead on Highway 20 (Elev. 5400 feet)

Way Points: Liberty Bowl & Concord–Lexington Col (trail hike & rock scramble)

Summit: Lexington Tower (rock climb & descent via North Face)

Approximate Daytrip Stats: 6 miles traveled; 2300 feet gained & lost; 3.7 hours up; 2.6 hours down.

Approximate Total Stats: 12 miles traveled; 4600 feet gained & lost.

Trip Overview

George, Eileen, and I spent two beautifully sunny days in the Washington Pass area with a goal of climbing Concord and Lexington Towers.  These twin alpine crags are not as well known as their bigger neighbors—Liberty Bell and Early Winters Spires—but they offer the same mountain scenery, rock quality, and climbing legacy.  Our launching point was Lone Fir Campground, conveniently situated just a few miles east of the pass.

We started both climbs at the Concord-Lexington Col, which provides direct access to the south face of Concord Tower and the north face of Lexington Tower.  Aside from having the easiest route on each tower (rated 5.6 to 5.7), these faces have a historical character, with first ascents dating back to 1965 and 1954, respectively.

Full Trip Report

Day 1: Concord Tower Summit Climb

The temperature was a chilly 34 degrees when we left the Blue Lake Trailhead at 7:15am.  We hiked 2 miles up the trail, then branched off to the left on a well-marked climber’s path that weaves up into Liberty Bowl.  The lower portion of this path has been extensively improved in recent weeks as part of a two-year project to establish a few key access routes and close down redundant paths.  Such a project was sorely needed; currently, there is a veritable maze of unsightly bootpaths crisscrossing Liberty Bowl.

Visually identifying the two towers during the approach can be a bit tricky.  Lexington Tower stands out as a slender pillar with a bulbous whitish cap, whereas Concord Tower is a bulky rock mass that blends in with adjacent Liberty Bell.

We zig-zagged up the couloir between both towers.  Heather, larch, and fir slopes transitioned into loose scree and talus as we ascended to the Concord-Lexington Col.  Some sources describe this as an unpleasantly loose gully, but that is misleading; it is really a broad couloir that tapers down to a roomy col at the top.  We had no trouble spreading out and eliminating rockfall risks.

Upon reaching the col at 9:30am (2.2 hours + 1950 feet from trailhead), it was still very cold, and the sun was hitting only the uppermost part of Concord Tower.  We took our time getting ready to climb, so as to allow the sun to creep up higher behind Lexington Tower.

By 10:30am, the sun was hitting the entire south face of Concord Tower, so George started up the South Face – East Side route (he skillfully led all pitches).  Pitch 1 began with a rightward traverse on sandy ledges, followed by a steep crack, a V-groove, and a finger traverse.  It ended at a belay nook with a small anchor tree.

Pitch 2 involved some easy scrambling up to the ridge crest, then a traverse over to a large ledge at the base of a remarkable wedge of granite.  This wedge is appropriately nicknamed “The Shark Fin.”  Pitch 3 went up the fin and then down the other side, with thrilling exposure in both directions.

Pitch 4 involved an exposed traverse around the right (north) side of the summit block, then a short climb up a bear-hug flake and crack to the small summit.

We all topped out by 1:15pm (6.0 hours + 2300 feet from trailhead; 2.7 hours + 300 feet from col).

We spent 45 minutes on the summit, basking in the sun and admiring the views.

When it was time to go, we descended the south face via two single-rope rappels, using double-bolt anchors each time.  The first rappel started with an awkward and scary slither over the summit horn to get onto the vertical face, and it ended at a tiny ledge 31 meters below.  If not for elastic stretch under body weight, our doubled 60-meter rope would not have reached the anchors!

From our semi-hanging stance, the second rappel got us to a wide ledge 30 meters below.  We were able to walk over to the col from there.

We collected our stashed gear and hiked back to the trailhead, arriving shortly after 5:00pm (3.2 hours from summit).

Day 2: Lexington Tower Summit Climb

Eileen chose to go on a day hike today, so George and I would be on our own for Lexington Tower.  Not wanting to climb the tower’s shady north face in early-morning chill, we delayed our departure from camp and didn’t arrive at the Blue Lake Trailhead until shortly before 9:00am.  It was noticeably warmer today, and the parking lot was bustling.

With the benefit of familiarity, we made better time hiking up to the Concord-Lexington Col, arriving at 10:30am (1.6 hours + 1950 feet from trailhead).  We quickly got our gear ready.

George again led all pitches.  Pitch 1 started with a leaning crack, went up some blocky terrain, and ended at a small ledge.  Pitch 2 continued up more blocky terrain, weaving a bit left and right, and ended in a nook below the summit ridge.  Pitch 3 went up along a horny crest called “The Stegosaur.”

We were both on top just after noon (3.7 hours + 2300 feet from trailhead; 1.5 hours + 300 feet from col).  Views were only slightly different from yesterday’s, but it didn’t stop us from gawking a lot.

The summit horn and Shark Fin of Concord Tower were a mere stones throw away across the chasm.  Beyond that, a steady stream of climbers could be seen heading up Liberty Bell’s Beckey Route.  In contrast to yesterday’s solitude,  a party atmosphere surrounded the peaks today.

Surprisingly, there was still an old, aluminum Alpine Roamers register tube on top.  This was likely placed by some Wenatchee climbers back in the 1970s.

We descended by down-climbing the stegosaur pitch, then making two single-rope rappels from slung horns.

While rappelling, we spotted two paragliders soaring overhead.  Party atmosphere indeed!  We later found out that they had taken off from near Cornice Peak.

Once back at the col, we packed up and hustled down to the trailhead (2.6 hours from summit).  Eileen arrived 30 minutes later, having hiked up to Blue Lake along with many other larch viewers.

Approach Route Sketch

Photo Gallery

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