Trip Date: June 20-22, 2020
Chiwawa Mountain Climbing Trip
Chiwawa River
Red Mountain Prospects
Chiwawa Mountain (8459′)
Trip Report Summary
Region: North-Central Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Chiwawa Range
Area: Glacier Peak Wilderness
Starting & Ending Point: Chiwawa River Trailhead at Trinity on Chiwawa River Road (Elev. 2800 feet)
Way Points: Phelps Creek Bridge & Chiwawa River & Buck Creek Trail junction & Chiwawa Basin Trail junction & Red Mountain Prospects (trail hike & snow hike)
Campsite: Red Mountain Mining Road (Elev. 5900 feet)
Summit Attempt: Chiwawa Mountain (snow climb & rock scramble to 8300-foot rock horn via Southeast Ramp—East Ridge)
Summit: Chiwawa Mountain (snow climb via Southeast Slope—South Ridge Notch—Southwest Snowfield; descent via Southwest Snowfield—South Flank)
Approximate Stats: 19 miles traveled; 7300 feet gained & lost.
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Chiwawa Mtn & Fortress Mtn Summit Loop – June 1980
Full Trip Report
Eileen and I did a three-day trip in the Chiwawa Range to climb Chiwawa Mountain, and Kevin K joined us for the first two days. We greatly benefitted from the heavy snowpack currently remaining in the Cascades—presumably due to the prolonged cool and wet springtime weather this year.
Day 1: Trailhead to Red Mountain Road
Starting at the Chiwawa River / Buck Creek Trailhead in Trinity on a cloudy but warm Saturday noon, we hiked up-valley on Chiwawa River Trail #1550, which generally follows the old Red Mountain mining road. This road-trail was well-maintained for the first 2 miles, but just beyond the Buck Creek Trail junction, it became brushy and muddy in numerous locations. By mid-afternoon, we reached an obscure junction at 4800 feet (3.6 hours + 2050 feet from TH). Here, the main trail drops into Chiwawa Basin, whereas the old mining road heads up Red Mountain.
Hiking conditions further degenerated just past the second junction, as the road-trail cut through a grove of slide alder crossed by several swollen creeks. Improvement came when we re-entered deep forest and began switchbacking up the flank of Red Mountain. Through this area, the unmaintained mining road is heavily overgrown in places, but progress is not difficult. Snow patches became prevalent around 5000 feet, and solid snow began around 5300 feet. At 5800 feet, we broke out of the forest and got a first view of our objective peak.
Two more switchbacks led us to the edge of a large, open slope at 5900 feet (5.7 hours + 3300 feet from TH). Camp was established on the snow-covered road, with good views of Chiwawa Mountain and Buck Mountain.
Day 2: Chiwawa Mountain Summit Climb
We awoke to wispy clouds overhead but a thick cloud bank spilling over the western horizon. Would the weather hold today? Our trio left camp at 8:30am and began cramponing across the crusty hillslope, still following the old mining road.
At 6000 feet, where the mining road entered a drainage draw and disappeared under deep snow, we angled upward on moderate slopes. The rocky summit of Chiwawa Mountain lay directly ahead, and other peaks came into view behind us.
Upon reaching the southeastern face of Chiwawa Mountain, we turned right and ascended a broad, gently inclined snow ramp. This ramp ends at a shallow 8200-foot saddle on the peak’s east ridge.
At the saddle, Kevin elected to head back to camp, as he needed to be home tonight. Meanwhile, Eileen and I scrambled up a moderately exposed Class 3 rock step that ended at an 8300-foot horn high on the east ridge.
Although a deep notch prevented us from continuing along the ridge crest, I expected that we could cross over to the northeast face and keep going up. However, one look at the steep, exposed face told me otherwise. I had previously climbed the northeast face in 1980 but was now shocked to see how much steeper it has gotten in the last 40 years! (This geological process, called “tectonic steepening,” increases the inclination of climbing routes by about 1 degree per year and is perceptible only by old climbers.)
Despite being stymied on the east ridge, Eileen and I had ample time to retreat to the saddle, curl around the southern flank of the peak, and make an attempt on the western side. This involved descending the southeast snow ramp, then climbing up a steep snowfinger that slices through the south ridge.
The snowfinger ended at a small notch, from which we crossed over a Class 2 ledge to the peak’s southwestern side. An easy snow traverse led us farther around to a point closely above the Chiwawa–Fortress Saddle, then a long snowfield took us directly upward for 1000 feet.
After a short traverse along the west ridge, we stepped onto the summit at 3:45pm (7.1 hours + 3900 feet from camp). The register showed that a party of four had summited earlier the same day, but nobody else had signed in this year.
We stayed long enough to enjoy some views of the Stehekin Mountains to the northeast and the Entiat Mountains to the east. Unfortunately, everything to the northwest and west was still socked in.
To descend, we followed our steps down the southwest snowfield, then cut beneath the east ridge buttress. This required traversing some steep slopes with bad runouts, but eventually we reached mellower slopes on the southeastern flank. Camp welcomed us shortly before 7:00pm (2.8 hours + 100 feet from summit).
Day 3: Red Mountain Road to Trailhead
The morning brought clear, blue skies and warmer weather. By the time we reached the trailhead at noon (4.4 hours from camp), it seemed that spring had finally transitioned into summer.
Route Map
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
