Trip Date: January 12, 2024
2024 MEXICO ADVENTURE VACATION
Buzz Rock Sport-Climb
Five-Pitch Harmony Route (Class 5.9)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Mexico
Sub-Region: Sierra Madre Oriental aka Eastern Mother Range
Sub-Sub-Region: Sierra San Miguel aka Sierra del Fraile
Locale: Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon
Area: Potrero Chico Recreational Park
Starting Point for Approach: Buzz Rock Trailhead off Old Potrero Chico Road (Elev. 2200 feet / 670 meters)
Feature: Buzz Rock (Base Elev. 2700 feet / 820 meters)
Route: Five-Pitch Harmony (five pitches of sport climbing)
…
Full Trip Report
During a short rock-climbing trip to Potrero Chico Recreational Park (“PoCho”) in northeastern Mexico, Eileen and Brooke and I spent a day at Buzz Rock. Our objective was Five-Pitch Harmony, a multi-pitch sport route that Brooke had been eyeballing. An interesting aspect of this route is that the five pitches increase from Class 5.5 to 5.9 in a nearly regular progression. More importantly, it is also reported to be generously bolted, which is something we all would appreciate.
The Approach
Starting at our little abode just outside the park on a sunny Friday morning, we walked up Old Potrero Chico Road, turned right on a gravel road, crossed a drainage channel, and hiked up a trail toward Buzz Rock. From below, Five-Pitch Harmony can be seen as a long, squiggly, white stripe extending up the right side of the main rock face.
.
Upon arriving at the base of the route, we were surprised to find four of our PoCho acquaintances—Bob, Beth, Blake, and Toni—roping up for the same climb. What in blazes? I had casually mentioned our plan to them during last night’s dinner, and now we caught them poaching our route! All was forgiven, though, when Toni graciously offered to buy us each a margarita after the climb. Damn…she sensed our greatest weakness and went right in for the kill shot!
.
The Climb
Bob and Beth led off first, opting for the 5.7 variation pitch rather than the standard 5.6 starting pitch. They were immediately followed by Blake and Toni on a separate rope. Brooke, Eileen, and I went behind them on two ropes, with Brooke and me swinging leads.
.
As advertised, the limestone rock quality was very good and the bolting was indeed very generous. We all enjoyed the climbing immensely, as well as our conversations at the belay stations when two rope teams would converge.
.
.
Our climb had begun in the heat of full sunshine, but it was shady and chilly by the time we all topped out. Those of us who had packed up a jacket (ahem…Toni) were feeling pretty smart; the rest of us took it as a lesson regarding how quickly the weather here can change. (Case in point: the local temperature dropped below freezing just a few days later!)
.
.
The Descent
In order to expedite the descent, we all agreed to consolidate our seven people and four ropes into one big rappel team. This worked very efficiently after getting a few kinks ironed out. There were also some comically chaotic moments, such as when four of us found ourselves sharing a tiny ledge and a single anchor station with an ascending climber. Fortunately, everyone maintained a good sense of humor, such that we got lots of laughs from the messy situation.
.
Upon completing our fifth and final rappel in the chill of late afternoon, we all donned warm clothing and then hurried down to La Posada for dinner and margaritas. Five-Pitch Harmony had proven to be everything we’d hoped for in a multi-pitch sport climb, but it was really the seven-part camaraderie that turned it into an extra fun day!
.
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
