Trip Date: May 13-18, 2019

Buena Vista Pass Hiking Loop:  Illilouette Creek to Bridalveil Creek 

Buena Vista Lake
Buena Vista Pass
Mount Bruce (9743 ft)
Royal Arch Lake
Johnson Lake
Crescent Lake
Grouse Lake
Chilnualna Creek
Turner Meadow

Trip Report Summary

Region: California

Sub-Region: Sierra Nevada Range

Sub-Sub-Region: Buena Vista Crest

Area: Yosemite National Park

Starting Point: Panorama Trailhead at Glacier Point on Glacier Point Road (Elev. 7200 feet)

Way Points for Basic Loop: West Fork Illilouette Creek & Main Fork Illilouette Creek & South Illilouette Bench & Buena Vista Creek & Buena Vista Lake & Buena Vista Pass & Royal Arch Lake & Johnson Lake & Crescent Lake & Grouse Lake & Upper Grouse Creek & Chilnualna Creek & Lower Grouse Creek & South Chilnualna Bench & Upper Grouse Creek & Grouse–Chilnualna Ridge & Chilnualna Creek trifurcation & Chilnualna Creek & Turner Meadow Knoll & Turner Meadow & West Fork Bridalveil Creek & Upper Bridalveil Creek & Bridalveil Creek Campground (trail hike & snow hike)

Low Point: Illilouette Creek (Elev. 6060 feet)

High Point: Buena Vista Pass bench (Elev. 9450 feet)

Ending Point of Backcountry Loop: Bridalveil Creek Campground Roadhead on Glacier Point Road (Elev. 7000 feet)

Way Points for Loop Closure: Ostrander Lake Trailhead & Mono Meadow Trailhead & Sentinel Dome / Taft Point Trailhead & Glacier Point parking lot (walk via Glacier Point Road)

Ending Point of Full Loop: Glacier Point parking lot on Glacier Point Road (Elev. 7200 feet)

Campsites: South Illilouette Creek bench & Buena Vista Pass bench & South Chilnualna Creek bench & Turner Meadow knoll & Bridalveil Creek Campground roadhead

Summit: Mt. Bruce (snow hike via Northwest Ridge)

Approximate Stats (excluding summit sidetrip): 42.5 miles traveled (34.5 miles on trail & snow + 8.0 miles on paved road); 9200 feet gained & lost.

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Full Trip Report

Having enjoyed a successful trip to Yosemite National Park last year, Eileen and I made a return visit this year.  Both trips were completed in mid-May, but conditions were very different.  Two factors weighed heavily on this year’s trip:  First, there was a major forest fire in the park last summer.  Second, the Sierra Range just experienced an unusually severe winter that left the snowpack at about 150% of normal.  What this meant for us was numerous zones of burned-out forest; countless logs across trails; many snow patches over low-elevation trails; deep snow over high-elevation trails; and, most importantly, raging water in every sizeable creek channel.  Ultimately, we were served up a grand adventure with far more challenges than bargained for.

Day 1: Glacier Point Parking Lot to South Illilouette Bench 

We left the bustling Glacier Point parking lot shortly before noon and started hiking down the Panorama Trail.  Warm air, blue skies, bare ground, and long-range views all conspired to give us the impression that this would be a fun, carefree backpacking trip.  It turned out to be a false impression indeed.

In 3 miles, we arrived at the west fork of Illilouette Creek and our first hint of future problems.  There was no bridge or footlog across this creek, which would normally be a mere trickle but was now a swift current.  No matter; we simply changed into water sandals and forded the knee-deep creek.

We continued up-trail for another ½ mile and came to the main fork of Illilouette Creek.  Our original plan was to cross this creek, then complete a large counter-clockwise loop over Red Peak Pass and back to Glacier Point via Little Yosemite Valley.  However, the wide channel and lack of a bridge here caused us to hastily devise a new plan:  we would instead make a large clockwise loop over Buena Vista Pass and back to Glacier Point via Bridalveil Creek.

The next 3 miles of Buena Vista Trail ascended gently through large zones of burned-out forest.  These burn zones looked very recent—presumably a result of the 2018 forest fire.  The devastation was extensive and depressing.

Fortunately, there are many zones of green forest remaining along this trail, as well as fine views of Mt. Starr King to the north.

By early evening, we crossed over a broad 7150-foot bench overlooking Illilouette Creek, so we made camp among the tall pines here (6.2 hours + 6.5 miles + 1300 feet from TH).

Day 2: South Illilouette Bench to Buena Vista Pass

Our second day dawned clear and mild, and we continued hiking southward on the Buena Vista Trail.  Snow cover became patchy at 7500 feet and prevalent at 8000 feet.

The snow was well-consolidated, so foot travel was quite good; we never felt the need for snowshoes.  We gradually worked our way onto a snowy rib overlooking still-frozen Buena Vista Lake.  The day was becoming cold and gray, heralding a change in the weather.  Little did we know what a major change it would be.

By late afternoon, we gained 9350-foot Buena Vista Pass, whose only notable feature is a large, gnarly, dead tree.

In hopes of finding bare ground for camping, we booted 100 feet up to a granite outcrop northeast of the pass (7.3 hours + 5.5 miles + 2800 feet from Camp 1).  A tiny nook on the leeward side of this outcrop not only provided a sheltered tent site but also the highest and one of the most scenic camps we’ve ever had!

Having a little time before dinner, I made a side trip over to 9743-foot Mt. Bruce, the highest point on Buena Vista Crest.  This ascent merely required an alpine stroll across a gentle, mile-long ridge.

Summit views were quite nice.  The Clark Range and other High Sierra peaks stretched out to the north.  Rolling foothills angled down to the south.

I returned to camp (1.1 hours + 2.0 miles + 450 feet RT) and joined Eileen for dinner on a granite ledge.

Day 3: Buena Vista Pass to South Chilnualna Bench

It had been a cold, gusty night, and we awoke to gray skies with snow flurries.  We broke camp and booted down the southern side of Buena Vista Pass.  Our route took us past Royal Arch Lake to Johnson Lake, then westward past Crescent Lake and Grouse Lake.  Snow flurries transitioned to rain showers as we lost elevation.

About 1 mile west of Grouse Lake, we started seeing bits of trail on the northern side of Grouse Creek.  The trail led us down to a junction with the Wawona Trail, and from there, we followed a different trail northward over a spur ridge to reach Chilnualna Creek.  Our planned loop trip required us to cross this creek so that we could circle back to Glacier Point.  As such, we were extremely dismayed to see a raging creek with no bridge!  It was becoming apparent that Yosemite National Park does not provide bridges at most creek crossings.

I reconnoitered 500 yards upstream in hopes of finding a fallen log or snowbridge, but to no avail.  I did, however, stumble across a fresh set of large bear tracks in the snow.  Yikes!  Because it was now late afternoon and raining lightly, Eileen and I made a quick decision to head south, away from Chilnualna Creek.

We hiked back over the spur ridge and steered toward a 7500-foot bench 1 mile to the south.  In the process of crossing lower Grouse Creek, I slipped down the snowy bank and filled both of my boots with water.  Sweeeeet!  It was early evening when we sloshed onto our target bench and stopped for the day (9.8 hours + 10.0 miles + 1350 feet from Camp 2).  The burned-out forest provided a comfortable but uninspiring campsite.

Shortly after we got our tent pitched, the temperature became noticeably colder and the rain changed to wet snow.  This was textbook hypothermia weather, thereby adding yet another layer of concern to our situation.

In the relative comfort of our tent, Eileen and I finally had a chance to study our available terrain data.  Frustratingly, since this alternative loop trip was never part of our original plan, none of our maps covered the local area in any detail. Using our meager data, we considered two different options:

(1) Continue southwesterly down-slope through a cliff band, then head westerly to reach Wawona village.

(2) Traverse back over to Chilnualna Creek, then proceed far enough upstream to find a safe crossing point, then head back down the other side.

Both options presented many uncertainties related to foul weather, new snow, treacherous cliffs, and/or raging creeks.  Before retiring for the night, Eileen sent out an In-Reach text message to our support friends, Jim-A, Lisa, Fay, and Steve, requesting terrain and weather information.

Day 4: South Chilnualna Bench to Turner Meadow Knoll

Following a restless night, we awoke to mixed rain and snow, with 2 inches of wet snow on the ground.  In-Reach messages arrived during breakfast, indicating that Option 1 involved critical doubts regarding our ability to get down the cliff band and to cross waterways near Wawona.  Option 2 involved a long day of travel through fresh snow but seemed far less risky.  Option 2 it would be.

Almost miraculously, as a firm reinforcement of our decision to pursue Option 2, the weather cleared up just as we began breaking camp.  We spent the next several hours hiking through sunny forest.  It was a winter wonderland!

We crossed upper Grouse Creek on a thick snowbridge, then contoured northeasterly into the Chilnualna Creek valley, aiming for a point where the creek splits into three separate branches.  It was snowing heavily by the time we reached the creek’s trifurcation point, but we hardly noticed; our sole focus was finding safe crossings across each branch.

Nothing in the mountains frightens me more than the thought of falling into a raging creek—especially one that dives under a snowpack—so Eileen and I took a very conservative approach to our task.  After rejecting many dubious possibilities, we were ultimately able to find acceptable snowbridges across all three branches.

Once across the third branch (4.5 hours + 1000 feet from Camp 3), we began hiking down along the northern side of the main creek channel.  It was mid-afternoon when we arrived at a junction with the north-south trail that would take us to Bridalveil Creek.  We were directly across the creek from yesterday’s location.  On paper, it had taken us a full 24 hours to make 200 yards of forward progress!

With a feeling of relief, we proceeded northward along the trail route for 1.5 miles, then stopped to camp on a 7600-foot knoll above Turner Meadow (7.9 hours + 5.0 miles + 1400 feet from Camp 3).  We carved out a platform in the snow, pitched our tent, and dove in.  Heavy snow fell intermittently throughout the night.

Day 5: Turner Meadow Knoll to Bridalveil Creek Campground Roadhead

It was still snowing in the morning, and there was 6 inches of fresh snow on the ground.  Once again, however, the sun was shining by the time we headed out.

Our route generally followed the buried hiking trail as it went northward through Turner Meadow, over a spur ridge, and then down a west fork of upper Bridalveil Creek.  Booting through the fresh snow was slow but enjoyable.

As we continued farther downstream through blackened or scruffy forest, our progress slowed even more.  Worse yet, the final 1½ miles of trail took nearly 2 hours due to an incessant series of fallen logs, thick snow drifts, and flooded side streams.

We eventually reached Bridalveil Creek Campground, which was still closed and snowed-in.  After an additional half-mile of walking, we arrived at Glacier Point Road (6.3 hours + 7.5 miles + 700 feet from Camp 4), feeling tired but satisfied.

It was always assumed that we would easily be able to thumb a ride up to Glacier Point to retrieve our car.  However, we quickly sensed a problem:  this is normally a very busy road, yet not a single car had passed by in our several minutes here.  Could the road be closed for some reason?  Eileen fired off a text message to Jim-A, our “ground man,” and he soon texted back with the disconcerting news that Glacier Point Road was currently closed—and would be closed for several more days.  Unbelievable!

We resigned ourselves to camping here, so we spent the next 2 hours drying out our wet tent and wet clothing.  The Glacier Point parking lot was 8 miles up this silent road, and it became clear that we were going to be making the long walk.  Ugh!

At 5:20pm, we headed out with a small rucksack.  Not being burdened by large backpacks, the 8-mile trek went surprisingly fast, and we reached the road-end parking lot at 8:00pm (2.7 hours + 1150 feet from Camp 5), scant minutes before dark.

Our rental car was the only vehicle in the large and eerily quiet parking lot.  We hopped in, fired up the engine, and drove back to the Bridalveil Creek Campground road junction.  It was another comfortable but totally uninspiring campsite.

Day 6: Bridalveil Creek Campground Roadhead to Glacier Point Road Gate

The night had been clear and cold, and we awoke to frost on our tent.  We tossed everything into our car and drove 8 miles down to Wawona Road (Highway 41).  A hefty steel gate with a chain and two in-series padlocks blocked further progress.  What to do?  Fortunately, Jim-A had already talked to several officials and learned that a phone call to 9-1-1 would earn our freedom.  Even more fortunately, there was a working pay phone just outside the gate (cell phones do not work here).

I called 9-1-1 and explained our predicament.  The emergency operator casually said, “Oh, one of those padlocks has a combination code; let me look that up for you.”  Could it really be this easy?  He gave me a code, and the padlock opened.  Very suddenly, we were free to leave, bringing a joyous end to our topsy-turvy adventure!

Route Maps & Profile

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