September 22-24, 2000

Luahna Peak Climbing Trip

White River
Boulder Basin
Clark Basin
Luahna Basin
Luahna Peak (8400’+)

——————– Trip Report Summary ——————–

Region: North-Central Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: DaKobed–White Range

Area: Glacier Peak Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: White River Trailhead (White River Road)

Way Points: White River & Boulder Creek & Boulder Basin & Upper Boulder Basin (trail hike)

Campsites: Boulder Creek Ford & Upper Boulder Basin

Sidetrip: Clark Basin & Luahna Basin & Luahna Ridge Saddle (trail hike & off-trail hike & rock scramble)

Summit: Luahna Peak (ascent & descent via Southwest Slope—Southeast Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 30 miles traveled; 9400 feet gained & lost.

——————– Full Trip Report By Laura Zimmerman ——————-

Day 1 – Trailhead to Boulder Creek Ford:

Jim, Craig, and I left the White River trailhead Friday evening under clear skies, en route to Boulder Basin. This climb was the 25th anniversary of Jim and Craig’s climbing together. We got a later start than we wanted, so were able to travel without the use of headlamps for only about 45 minutes. Both the White River and Boulder Creek trails were in excellent shape.  We camped at the only campsite along Boulder Creek, at about 3,700 feet elevation in the deep forest.

Day 2 (AM) – Boulder Creek Ford to Upper Boulder Basin:

The next morning, we headed up to Boulder Basin, where we met a small group of hunters (cooking a delicious-looking breakfast) who reportedly enjoyed several days of hiking (no deer). They did mention with an air of distaste that an earlier group had shot a “camp deer”, and the gut pile was near the trail. Sure enough, the offal was about 100 yards from the camp. I don’t know how long this pile will go unnoticed by larger scavengers, including hungry, hyperphagic bears.

We could see the old sheepherder’s trail on the east side of Boulder Basin traversing the hillside beneath reddish rock slabs. We used Crowder and Tabor’s high route description to make the approach to Luahna. At 5,800 feet we set up our high camp on a grassy knoll overlooking Boulder Basin, loaded up our summit packs, and headed up over the saddle that would take us over to the White River drainage.

Day 2 (PM) – Luahna Peak Summit Climb:

The sheepherder’s trail is fairly well-defined, but from the saddle, you lose about 1,000 feet and then slowly gain it back as the first cirque is approached. The trail traversing this cirque is the most difficult to follow. We lost it and regained it several times during our approach.

The second cirque (Clark Basin) was less brushy, more open, and very “park like.” The trail was fairly well defined across Clark Basin, and the third cirque (Luahna Basin) was absolutely lovely. A high camp in Luahna Basin would be heaven on earth!

We made a rising traverse across Luahna Basin, shooting for the point at about 7,500 feet on the far ridge. From the ridge, a faint trail leads across scree and talus above the fourth cirque (Chalangin Basin) to the base of Luahna Peak. The climbing on Luahna varies with the route taken. We scrambled up easy Class 2 ledges on the south face to the ridge on the right skyline, then along the ridge toward the summit. When a gap in the ridge prevented further progress, we moved to the north side, where we proceeded along an exposed Class 3+ traverse to beneath the summit proper.

Class 3 scrambling led straight up to the summit (4.6 hours from high camp). What a view! I took a picture of Jim and Craig on their anniversary summit as they held cardboard cut-out numbers (“25”) that Jim and his daughter made earlier.

During our descent, we had a harder time finding the trail through the southernmost cirque. All I knew is that I did not want to have to find the trail under headlamp!  We did make it back just before dark (3.6 hours from summit).  The sheepherder’s trail has LOTS of ups and downs! I had blisters on the insides of my feet from so much side-hilling.

Day 3 – Upper Boulder Basin to Trailhead:

We hiked out in the chilly morning and reached the trailhead about noon (4.0 hours from high camp).   It was a very picturesque and worthwhile summit – especially because of the effort it took to reach her!

—————– Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) ——————–