July 10, 1999

Argonaut Peak Day Climb

Colchuck Lake
Colchuck Col aka Banshee Pass
Argonaut–Colchuck Saddle
Argonaut Peak (8453′)

——————– Trip Report Summary ——————–

Region: Central Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Icicle Mountains

Area: Alpine Lakes Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: Lake Stuart / Colchuck Lake Trailhead (Eightmile Creek Road)

Way Points: Mountaineer Creek & Colchuck Lake & Colchuck Couloir & Colchuck Col & Argonaut–Colchuck Saddle (trail hike & snow climb)

Summit: Argonaut Peak (ascent & descent via Northeast Gully—Northeast Face)

Approximate Stats: 16 miles traveled; 7200 feet gained & lost; 9.2 hours up; 5.5 hours down.

——————– Full Report By Laura Zimmerman ——————-

Four of us started out at the trailhead about 8:15am Saturday morning. The trail was in excellent condition, albeit a bit rough in places from roots and rocks. The path around Colchuck Lake had patches of snow that made staying on the trail a bit more challenging.

We reached the end of the lake, and the start of the 2,500-foot climb to Colchuck Col about 10:30. It was beautiful step-kicking in the 30- to 40-degree snow couloir. The snow was soft, but not mushy. We reached the 8050-foot col shortly after noon (4.2 hours + 4600 feet from TH), and had a short lunch before Jim and I took off for Argonaut, while Dee and Bob chose to climb Colchuck Peak.

We went into the climb with not a lot of information about our route, other than a brief mention in Beckey’s guide. But we figured we’d just “take a look at it.” At first glance, it appeared that a snow finger led almost continuously from the ridge connecting Colchuck to Argonaut, to the main snowfield on the northeast side of the mountain.

When we got to the ridge and saw the 1,000 foot sheer drop to a gully, followed by a 1,000 foot sheer rise to the snow finger, our spirits crumbled like rotten limestone! Jim negotiated some rock ledges, and eventually we found one that took us to the gully, a narrow, snow-filled, 50-degree couloir that led to who knows where!

We crossed the gully and climbed an obvious weakness (about 2 moves of 5.4 rock with great protection to 1.5 inches) that was followed by a 4th Class scramble up a rivulet of snowmelt (a little “wet-work”!). After negotiating the 55-degree snow finger, some short rock scrambling, and beautiful 45-degree snow on the northeast face, we reached the base of the summit blocks.

The true summit is the one on the right, as you look from Colchuck Peak.

There is an easy 4th Class scramble up a rock ridge to the “leaning rock,” on top of which lies the summit rock and register.  We summited about 5:30pm (9.2 hours from TH).

We retraced our up-route and ended up back at the parking lot at 11:30pm 5.5 hours from summit), to the relief and dismay of our hungry and nearly hypothermic teammates. (Note – if you split the team, make sure they also have a set of car keys!!).

I return with mixed feelings – the summit was fantastic and glorious, made all the better by the struggle with which it was reached. But the anguish of letting my teammates down to chase the summit glory leaves me feeling hollow, selfish, and inconsiderate. No summit is worth sacrificing your life or your friendships, especially those forged by the bond of the mountains. It was a bittersweet day.

—————– Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) ——————