Trip Date: June 21-22, 2008
Ingalls Peaks Climbing Trip
Ingalls Pass
Headlight Basin
Ingalls Col
North Ingalls Peak aka Main Ingalls Peak (7662′)
Headlight Peak aka Fortune Peak (7382′)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Central Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Teanaway Mountains
Area: Alpine Lakes Wilderness
Starting & Ending Point: Esmerelda Trailhead at end of North Fork Teanaway River Road (Elev. 4250 feet)
Way Points: North Fork Teanaway River & Longs Pass Trail junction & Ingalls Pass & Headlight Basin (trail hike & snow hike)
Campsite: Headlight Basin
Sidetrip: Ingalls Couloir & Ingalls Col (snow climb)
Summit: North Ingalls Peak (rock climb via South Ridge)
Summit: Headlight/Fortune Peak (snow climb via East Slope)
Approximate Stats: 12 miles traveled; 5000 feet gained & lost.
Related Posts
South Ingalls Peak via North Ridge – October 10, 2020
North Ingalls Peak via South Ridge – October 12, 1996
North Ingalls Peak via South Ridge – August 5, 1984
North Ingalls Peak via South Ridge + East Ingalls Peak – June 18, 1978
South Ingalls Peak via North Ridge + Dogtooth Crag – October 3, 1976
Full Trip Report
Based on a sketchy weather forecast, Eileen and I retreated to the Teanaway area for a weekend with Mike M., Kerry, Anne, and four—count ’em, FOUR—teenage boys. Our goals were to (1) get Eileen up North Ingalls Peak via the classic South Ridge route, and (2) get the boys onto something they could crampon up and glissade down. Both goals were achieved, but not without some mishaps and doubts along the way.
Day 1: Trailhead to Headlight Basin + North Ingalls Peak Climb
On Saturday, we got a crack-of-noon start up the trail to Ingalls Pass. Snowline occurred only a mile up the trail, so we were on snow all the way to camp in Headlight Basin.
- Traversing to Headlight Basin
At 5:00pm, Eileen and I headed out for North Ingalls Peak. This was much later than I’d planned, but I figured such a late start would give us the mountain alone. Wrong! When we reached the base of the peak shortly before 6:00pm, there were several parties coming down and several going up. The South Ridge route sure has a strong magnetic field!
- Climbing through Hogback on Ingalls Peaks
- Scrambling To Base Of South Ridge On North Ingalls Peak
But shucks, I’m as guilty as everyone else; this was my fifth ascent. After a brief wait for a party of five ahead of us, we started up.
- Eileen On South Ridge
The route was just as interesting and enjoyable as ever, despite a cold wind blowing across. Eileen marveled at the drastically different textures on the face, ranging from rough elephant hide to glassy slickenside. At the end of Pitch 2, we scrambled to the summit.
- Eileen On North Ingalls Peak Summit
Then hurried back down to the upper rappel station. The last person from the party of five was just rapping off, and she kindly allowed us to bum a ride on their double 60-meter rope. Considering that I’m old-fashioned enough to think a 45-meter rope is standard and a 50-meter rope is long, it was quite a treat for me to reach the bottom in one fast, continuous rappel. “Yeah, double 60’s are the way to go on this route!” I told myself at the bottom.
- Eileen Rappelling Off Ingalls Peak
Naturally, my mere thought ensured that the ropes would get hopelessly stuck. Two of us pulled and yanked and flipped for 10 minutes, but to no avail. I volunteered to prusik back up the first pitch and was eventually able to free the ropes. This little adventure cost us nearly an hour, and it was 9:30pm by the time Eileen and I reached camp in Headlight Basin.
Day 2: Headlight Basin to Trailhead + Headlight Peak Climb
On Sunday, we awoke to low clouds and an icy wind. This was certainly not inviting weather for a group climb, but Mike, Kerry, Anne, Eileen, and the youngsters still wanted to try something. I suggested Point 7382, an unnamed satellite of Ingalls Peaks. The snow was firm enough to justify crampons, which seemed to please the boys.
- Climbing up Headlight Peak
We zigzagged up a series of moderately steep snow slopes and reached the summit an hour later. I had the boys build a summit cairn, then we christened it “Headlight Peak” and left a little summit register.
- Group On Headlight Peak Summit
This was the boys’ first register signing, which was a hit, but things got even better after that: We all delighted by a thousand feet of first-class glissading back to camp.
- Full Party Glissade
I think the four young mountaineers-to-be were sad to pack up and leave. And I suspect they’ll be back some year!
Photo Gallery
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