Trip Date: August 5-7, 2016
Mt. Thomson Climbing Trip
Kendall Pass & Kendall Katwalk
Ridge Lake & Gravel Lake
Bumblebee Pass
Bumblebee Basin
Mount Thomson (6554 ft)
(Note: erroneously spelled “Thompson” in some references)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Central Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Snoqualmie Range
Area: Alpine Lakes Wilderness
Starting & Ending Point: PCT-Northbound Trailhead at Snoqualmie Pass on Interstate 90 (Elev. 3000 feet)
Way Points: Commonwealth Basin Trail junction & Kendall Ridge Saddle & Kendall Pass & Ridge Lake & Bumblebee Pass & Bumblebee Basin (trail hike & rock scramble)
Campsites: Bumblebee Basin & Kendall Ridge Saddle
Summit: Mt. Thomson (rock scramble & rock climb via Southwest Couloir—West Ridge; descent via East Ridge)
Approximate Stats: 20 miles traveled; 5200 feet gained & lost.
Related Posts
>>> Mt Thomson attempt + Kendall Peak – August 2014
>>> Mt Thomson via West Ridge – October 1997
Full Trip Report
Last weekend, I joined Lisa and Eileen on a climb of Mt. Thomson near Snoqualmie Pass. Like many peaks of the Snoqualmie Range, it has a modest elevation that belies its rugged character. Thomson is a steep, chiseled wedge when viewed from nearby Chikamin Peak, as shown in the photo below, but from other vantages, it has the appearance of a large, charcoal-colored bullet. You could say that it’s small but scrappy. I often say the same thing about my cat Ellie.
- Joe Lake and Mount Thomson From Chikamin Peak
Day 1 (PM): Trailhead to Bumblebee Basin
We drove up to Snoqualmie Pass on Friday afternoon and hiked up the Pacific Crest Trail to Kendall Pass, then over the other side a couple miles until directly below Bumblebee Pass. A steep climber’s path led up to the narrow pass, then down into scenic little Bumblebee Basin (4.8 hours + 2900 feet from TH). We set up camp in the basin while the evening sun highlighted Chimney Rock and Lemah Mountain across the valley.
- Chimney Rock and Lemah Mountain From Camp
The basin was peppered with boulders consisting of gray andesite and white feldspar needles. This type of rock, called a “porphyry,“ also constitutes the bulk of Mt. Thomson.
- Porphyritic Andesite In Bumblebee Basin
Day 2: Mt. Thomson Summit Climb
In the morning, we awoke to a cold fog that engulfed the basin and the peaks above. We delayed our departure until most of the fog dissipated. The rest of the day was clear and sunny, although surprisingly cold. We headed up a long talus couloir to the west ridge notch.
- Ascending To West Ridge Notch
Fog lingered in the surrounding valleys all morning, and a chilly breeze blew steadily from the northwest.
- Mt Rainier Over Kendall Peaks
This climb of Thomson’s very popular West Ridge route was selected by Lisa and Eileen, and they took turns doing all of the rock leads. My job was to stay tied in between our two ropes, belay the leader and follower, and keep complaints to a minimum. On a rope team, this person is commonly called the “belay wench.” I was a pretty good one.
The first two leads went up a series of chimneys in solid rock.
- Eileen On Pitch 1
The crux was a Class 5.6 bulge at the start of Pitch 3, and Pitch 4 was a Class 5.4 face. Each of the first four pitches had considerable exposure.
- Looking Down West Ridge
Pitch 5 involved a Class 3-4 traverse of a large slab, which is a distinctive feature of Mt. Thomson when viewed from a distance. We were happy to get a reprieve from the exposure.
- Lisa Belaying On Pitch 5
Pitch 6 followed a series of ledges and cracks along the peak’s upper ridge. We were back on exposed terrain, but the rock quality was excellent.
- Jim Belaying On Pitch 6
We crossed over the western false summit, descended into a notch, then climbed one last roped pitch to the true summit (8.8 hours + 1500 feet from camp). Lisa and Eileen were delighted.
- Lisa and Eileen On Summit
It was late afternoon by now, but we spent a good half hour soaking in the summit views. Nearby peaks included Chimney Rock and Lemah Mountain…
- Overcoat Peak, Chimney Rock, and Lemah Mountain
…as well as Three Queens and Hibox Peak.
- Three Queens, Hibox Peak, and Joe Lake
We descended the East Ridge route by making one double-rope rappel, then scrambling down Class 3 slabs to easier ground. We strolled into camp shortly after 7:30pm (3.3 hours from summit).
Evening 2: Bumblebee Basin to Kendall Ridge Saddle
With just enough time to pack up and get over Bumblebee Pass before darkness fell, we headed out. Headlamps went on somewhere around Ridge Lake, and we crossed over Kendall Pass (1.4 hours from basin) in the dark. At 10:30pm (2.4 hours from basin), we reached a nice trailside forest camp at the Kendall Ridge Saddle, so Eileen and I stopped for the night. Lisa elected to continue hiking down to the trailhead.
Day 3 (AM): Kendall Ridge Saddle to Trailhead
After a comfortable night at the forest camp, Eileen were up and moving early. We reached the trailhead at 7:45am (1.8 hours from camp) and met up with Lisa there.
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
