Morning sun warms the snowy cone of Mt St Helens before it erupted in 1980
Mt St Helens viewed from Timberline Campground in 1975 before its catastrophic eruption in 1980

Mt St Helens [Pre-Eruption] via Dogs Head—Nelson Glacier (Southern Cascades, WA)

Jim Brisbine·
Lookout SitesMount St Helens MassifSnow Tours in Southern WA CascadesSouthern WA CascadesSt Helens, Mt (9677/8365/8321 ft)The Early YearsThe Regal SixWinter Summits
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Trip Date: April 11, 1975

WHS ALPINE CLUB OUTING

Mt. Saint Helens Day Climb

Dog’s Head
Nelson Glacier
Mount Saint Helens aka Loowit (9677 ft – pre-eruption)

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Trip Report Summary

Region: Southern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Mt. St. Helens Massif

Area: Gifford Pinchot National Forest

Starting & Ending Point: Timberline Campground at end of Spirit Lake Road (Elev. 4400 feet)

Summit: Mt. St. Helens (snow climb via Northeast Slope—Dog’s Head—Nelson Glacier)

Approximate Stats: 6 miles traveled; 5300 feet gained & lost.

>>> Mount St. Helens via Monitor Ridge (Post-Eruption) – April 25, 1998

>>> Mount St. Helens via Monitor Ridge (Post-Eruption) – July 25, 1988

Full Trip Report

On a gorgeous bluebird morning during Spring Break of 1975, I climbed Mt. St. Helens with a large group from Wenatchee High School.  The climb was led by Bill Asplund—a WHS teacher, Alpine Club coordinator, veteran mountaineer, and enthusiastic mentor.  Our arsenal of equipment and clothing included steel crampons, wooden-shaft ice axes, cotton-based “60/40” parkas, wool knickers, and fuzzy balaclavas.

Starting from the plowed loop road in Timberline Campground, we cramponed up crusty snow to a distinctive rock outcrop called The Dog’s Head.  This lower snowfield was not crevassed, so it was not necessary to rope up.

Heading Toward The Dog’s Head
Looking Back At Mt Rainier and Timberline Campground Road
Climbing Up To The Dog’s Head

After taking a break atop The Dog’s Head, we roped up and ascended the upper Nelson Glacier to the false summit and then over to the 9677-foot true summit.  A thick layer of snow and rime ice covered the summit crater and hid any evidence of the former lookout cabin that was constructed here in 1922.

Bill Asplund Leading Rope Team Up Nelson Glacier
Jim On Mt St Helens Summit

It was a gorgeous day to stand on a high summit.  Views extended to Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and beyond.  Snow-covered Spirit Lake was visible far below.

Mt Rainier and Spirit Lake From Mt St Helens Summit
Mt Hood From Mt St Helens Summit
View Southwest From Mt St Helens Summit

None of us could have imagined that this elegant Fuji-esque volcano would massively erupt a mere 5 years later, forever changing the character of both the mountain and the climb!

Route Maps & Photograms

Mt. St. Helens Route Map (USGS)

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Route Diagram 1 (1973 Cascade Alpine Guide)

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Route Diagram 2 (1973 Cascade Alpine Guide)

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Vintage Route Description

Mt St Helens Climbing Guide Cover (Ray Smutek)

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Mt St Helens Climbing Guide Title (Ray Smutek)

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Dogs Head Route Description (Ray Smutek)

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Click to enlarge…

Mt St Helens viewed from Timberline Campground in 1975 before its catastrophic eruption in 1980
Heading Toward The Dog’s Head
Looking Back At Mt Rainier and Timberline Campground Road
Climbing Up To The Dog’s Head
Bill Asplund Leading Rope Team Up Nelson Glacier
Jim High On Mt St Helens
Alpine Club At False Summit On Mt St Helens
Jim On Mt St Helens Summit
Mt Rainier and Spirit Lake From Mt St Helens Summit
Mt Hood From Mt St Helens Summit
View Southwest From Mt St Helens Summit