Trip Date: July 29 – August 1, 2010

MID-SUMMER OUTING NO. 8:  OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS

Mt. Anderson Climbing Trip

Dosewallips River
Dosewallips Ranger Station
High Dose Bridge
Honeymoon Meadows
Anderson Pass
Lake Anderson aka Lake Valkyrie
Flypaper Pass
Mount Anderson: East Peak aka East Anderson Peak aka “Easy Anderson” Peak (7321′)
Mount Anderson: West Peak aka West Anderson Peak aka “Hard Anderson” Peak (7365′) attempt 
Echo Col

Trip Report Summary

Region: Olympic Mountains (Washington)

Sub-Region: Dosewallips Group

Starting & Ending Point: Dosewallips River Road washout (Elev. 550 feet)

Way Points: Dosewallips River & Lake Constance Trailhead & Dosewallips Ranger Station & Dosewallips Trailhead (bike ride);  Dose Fork Bridge & High Dose Bridge & Diamond Meadows & West Fork Dosewallips River & Honeymoon Meadows & Camp Siberia & Anderson Pass & Anderson Glacier Moraine (trail hike)

Campsites: Anderson Glacier Moraine & Honeymoon Meadows

Sidetrip 1: Lake Valkyrie & Anderson Glacier & Flypaper Pass & Upper Eel Glacier (snow hike & snow climb)

Summit: East Anderson Peak (snow climb & rock scramble via Northwest Slope—North Ridge)

Summit Attempt 1: West Anderson Peak (snow climb to base of summit gully via North Face)

Sidetrip 2: Anderson Glacier & Flypaper Pass & Upper Eel Glacier (snow hike & snow climb); return via Echo Col & Anderson Glacier (snow climb & snow hike)

Summit Attempt 2: West Anderson Peak (rock scramble to first pinnacle via Northeast Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 42 miles traveled (32 miles on foot + 10 miles on bike); 14,500 feet gained & lost.

Related Posts

Mount Anderson: West Peak via Northeast Ridge – August 2011

Mount Anderson: East Peak + West Peak attempt – July 2005

Full Trip Report

Attending this eighth annual mid-summer climbing trip were old-timers Jon, Eric, Ryan, and Todd, along with a father/son newcomer duo of Craig and Grayson.  Craig and I started climbing together about 35 years ago; now he’s handing over his MSR helmet, Forrest ice axe, Galibier boots, Optimus stove, Wonder headlamp, wool knickers, and 60/40 parka to Grayson, who represents the next generation.

Our primary objectives were to climb both the east and west peaks of Mt. Anderson, which forms the hydrographic center of the Olympic Peninsula.  These two sibling summits are less than 50 feet apart in terms of elevation but are a world apart in terms of personality.  The east peak was probably a “good kid” growing up, always polite and aiming to please; it now offers mountaineers a fun, satisfying, and reasonably safe climbing experience.  The west peak, in contrast, probably grew up as a rapscallion who frequently got locked in the attic and developed a foul attitude; it now seeks revenge on all would-be climbers.

Day 1: Dosewallips Road Washout to Anderson Glacier Moraine

We parked cars at the big washout on the Dosewallips River Road and continued ahead for 5 miles on mountain bikes.  Riding all of the way (except for one long, steep hill) was exhausting with 50-pound backpacks, but we managed to reach the road-end ranger station before noon (1.7 hours from car).

The resident park ranger, Bruce, greeted us warmly and provided an update on trail conditions.  After a lunchtime chat, we started hiking up the Dosewallips River Trail under sunny skies.  This river features many scenic reaches and cascades, and the trail was well-maintained.  At Honeymoon Meadows (7.8 hours from car), we crossed the river in 2-foot-deep water, then proceeded onward to Anderson Pass and up to a 5100-foot pond on the flank of Mt. Anderson.  Camp was stomped out at a snowy saddle in the moraine above the pond (10.1 hours from car).

Day 2: East Anderson Peak Climb + West Anderson Peak Attempt

The night had been clear, chilly, and calm, resulting in a very heavy dew on all of our gear.  This prompted a leisurely morning to allow the sun to dry things out before leaving camp at 10:00am.  We traversed above still-frozen Anderson (Valkyrie) Lake and climbed up to Flypaper Pass (1.9 hours from camp).

The heavy snowpack made for relatively easy travel over the pass, across the head of the Eel Glacier, and up the northwest slope of Mt. Anderson’s east peak.

We finished off with a fun 20-foot scramble up the summit rocks (3.2 hours from camp). Visibility was excellent in all directions, and Jon was able to see his grandparents’ cabin on Hood Canal…sort of.

After an hour on the sunny east peak, it was time to check out the west peak.  We descended back to the Eel Glacier, then worked our way up moderately steep snow slopes on the opposite side.

A 100-foot scramble up Class 3 rock gained us a 7040-foot saddle in the northeast ridge crest—and a close-up view of the west peak’s frightening north face.  Gasp!  This visage of clinging snowfields and serrated ridgelines was enough to turn off the sensible among us, but Ryan and I decided to reconnoiter the face.

We roped up and climbed four pitches of steep (45- to 50-degree) snow, using up to five pickets per pitch.  The snow quality was superb, which made for good crampon purchase, solid picket placements, and a fun climb, despite the great exposure.

Our last pitch ended at the base of the summit gully, where a snow finger extended about 75 feet upward.  This looked very steep and challenging but not unreasonable; unfortunately, it was 6:00pm and we felt the need to turn around here.

We all arrived back in camp shortly after dark, thereby maintaining our long tradition of country-club starts and alpine finishes.

Day 3 (AM): West Anderson Peak Attempt #2

We again awoke to clear skies and remarkably heavy dew.  Our group was divided over today’s goal, after having come face to face with that ill-mannered West Anderson kid.  When Eric suggested a climb of Mt. LaCrosse across the valley, his idea was quickly validated by Ryan, Jon, Craig, and Grayson.  I, on the other hand, wanted to tangle with the west peak again—although by a different route—and Todd graciously offered to come along for support.  Our two teams parted ways in mid-morning, with the agreement of meeting down at Honeymoon Meadows for a lower camp.

Todd and I retraced yesterday’s route up to Flypaper Pass, across the Eel Glacier, and up to the west peak’s ridge saddle (2.9 hours from camp).  He then made himself comfortable on a heather bench while I slowly groped my way along the ragged northeast ridge, armed with a short rope and a bunch of slings.  The rock consisted of crumbly, sharp, steeply dipping, meta-sedimentary plates, like thousands of sawblades set on edge.  This, combined with tremendous exposure, gave me the heebie-jeebies.

To make matters worse, the sky was quickly turning dark gray.  Upon reaching the top of the first large pinnacle and seeing the false summit towering above a deep intervening notch, I knew it was not going to happen today.  I was frustratingly close but far away at the same time.  If ONLY I had a longer rope, a grappling hook, a belay partner, better weather, a gallon of super-glue, an extra three hours of daylight, and nerves of steel!

I retreated off the pinnacle with the aid of a self-belay rope, then Todd and I descended to the Eel Glacier.  For variety, we elected to return to camp via Echo Col, which is the first notch east of Echo Rock.  The north side of the col has a steep snow finger, but the south side has an easy “serpent’s head” walk-off to the ridge separating the Anderson Glacier and Quinault Glacier.

Day 3 (PM): Anderson Glacier Moraine to Honeymoon Meadows

We were tempted by a prominent pinnacle called “Anderson’s Thumb,” which involves a fun rock climb on good sandstone, but big raindrops started to fall at that moment.  We high-tailed it back to camp, packed up, and hiked down to Honeymoon Meadows (1.5 hours from high camp).  The rest of our group was waiting at a nice campsite.  Their climb of Mt. LaCrosse had gone very well until halted by—you guessed it—crumbly, sharp, exposed rock only 150 feet below the summit.  Fittingly, both teams were spanked by the same horrible Olympic rock this afternoon!

Day 4: Honeymoon Meadows to Dosewallips Road Washout

We were on the trail by 8:30am and had a pleasant hike down to the ranger station (4.0 hours from camp).  All morning, the sky had a whitish haze (probably due to forest fire smoke), which turned the sun into an eerie amber ball.  We retrieved our bikes and enjoyed a fast ride down to the cars (5.1 hours from camp).  This 5 miles of closed roadway makes a dandy bike route.  Our trip ended with a refreshing dip in the Dose River, followed by a delicious meal at Mike’s BBQ restaurant in Port Gamble.

Nomenclature Notes

The USGS Mt. Steel quad contains some incorrect labeling on Mt. Anderson. It shows the “east peak” label on an inconsequential 6280-foot sub-peak about a mile from the actual east peak summit, and the “Mt. Anderson” label has been errantly shifted toward the east peak for centering purposes. Although this error becomes quite obvious after doing a little map perusal or field observation, the Climber’s Guide to the Olympic Mountains has managed to propagate it rather than clarify it, thereby leading to some confusing nomenclature. (Incidentally, the same labeling format was used—correctly—for Mt. Olympus’ three principal peaks on the nearby Mt. Olympus quad.)

Route Sketches

Photo Gallery

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