July 20-21, 2002

Black Mountain Climbing Trip

White Chuck River
Kennedy Hot Springs
Lake Byrne
Lost Creek Basin
Black Mountain (7262′)

——————– Trip Report Summary ——————–

Region: North-Central Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: East Sauk Mountains

Area: Glacier Peak Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: Old White Chuck Trailhead (White Chuck River Road)

Way Points: White Chuck River & Glacier Creek & Kennedy Hot Springs & Lake Byrne (trail hike & snow hike) 

Campsite: Lake Byrne

Sidetrip: Byrne Basin & Byrne Ridge Saddle & Lost Creek Basin (snow hike & snow climb)

Summit: Black Mountain (ascent & descent via Northwest Face)

Approximate Stats: 23 miles traveled; 8400 feet gained & lost.

——————– Related Trip Reports ——————-

Lost-Glacier-White Loop + Black Mtn + Glacier Peak Carry-Over + Kololo Peak – August 10, 2013

——————– Full Trip Report ——————-

Day 1 – Trailhead to Lake Byrne:

Laura, Kevin, Matthew, and I started from the White Chuck Trailhead and hiked up to Lake Byrne on Saturday.  Kevin and Matthew were out for only a day hike, so they headed back to the car, whereas Laura and I set up camp on a ridge overlooking Glacier Peak.

Day 2 – Black Mtn Summit Climb + Exit:

Sunday morning, under cloudless skies, we left our camp and headed south toward 7262-foot Black Mountain. After crossing the east-facing basin south of Lake Byrne, we reached a 6100-foot saddle at the far end.

This saddle gave us our first full-on view of Black Mountain’s impressive north side, with its Shuksan-esque summit pyramid crowning a high, snowy plateau that spills over steep faces to form several handsome snowfields held between rock ribs. We speculated that the snowfield spilling down the northwest face might be a nice route, although it looks quite steep and Beckey states that its climbing details are unknown.

The first problem to tackle, however, was actually getting to the northwest face, as the ridge extending between our saddle and the peak looked a bit uninviting. Laura decided to call this splendid viewpoint her turn-around spot, so she headed back to the lake while I reconnoitered the route ahead.

From the saddle, I backtracked several hundred yards, then climbed straight up a snow finger to a 6200-foot notch in the ridge above Lost Creek. Vertical cirque walls on the western side prevented a direct descent into Lost Creek’s upper basin, but a steep heather slope to the northwest allowed me to scramble down. I crossed the basin floor at 5500 feet, then climbed southward through a gap in a west-trending rock rib (per Beckey).

A rising traverse across heather and snow slopes brought me to a south-facing cliff band, which at first looked impassible. However, I discovered a heathery cleft that offered an easy descent on goat paths, depositing me onto a large snow slope at 6200 feet. Black Mountain’s northwest face loomed directly ahead.

I climbed the snowfield straight up the center and was treated to a comfortable ascent of moderate (30- to 35-degree) inclination, followed by a short Class 2 scramble up the summit pyramid (4.7 hours from camp).

Summit views are dominated by Glacier Peak, which fills the northeastern skyline in a “wide-screen format,” but Kololo Peak, Tenpeak Mountain, Sloan Peak, and Mt. Pugh are also near at hand.

Unfortunately, the more distant peaks were washed out by the hazy air. I could not find a summit register at first, then spotted a film canister nestled between rocks. The few bits of paper inside indicated that John Roper’s party had left the canister in 1987. Only four other parties had signed in afterwards, including Mike Torok’s group and Greg Koenig in 2001. I suspect that there have been other summiteers who failed to find the tiny register. I left it conspicuously inside a small summit cairn.

My descent was highlighted by a 1000-foot boot glissade down the northwest face, and lowlighted by a punishingly hot 700-foot climb back up the Lost Creek cirque. I arrived back at Lake Byrne (2.1 hours from summit) depleted of water and feeling quite parched. Like an angel of mercy, Laura greeted me with a big smile and a big bottle of cold water! Aaahh….it was a wonderful alpine climb in a true wilderness area.  We packed up and hiked back to the trailhead (4.4 hours from camp).

————– Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) ——————