June 21-24, 2003

McAllister Mountains Climbing Trip & Inspiration Traverse:  Thunder Creek to Cascade River

Thunder Creek
Borealis Glacier
Borealis Pass aka Lucky Pass
Tricouni Peak (8102′)
Primus Peak (8508′)
Klawatti Glacier
Austera Peak (8334′)
North Klawatti Notch
Inspiration Glacier
Klawatti Peak (8485′)
Tepeh Gap
Dorado Col
Dorado Needle (8440’+)
Inspirado Saddle
Eldorado Glacier
Cascade River

——————– Trip Report Summary ——————–

Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: McAllister Mountains

Area: North Cascades National Park

Starting Point: Thunder Creek Trailhead at Colonial Creek Campground (Highway 20)

Way Points: Thunder Arm & Thunder Creek & McAllister Camp & Borealis Ridge (trail hike & off-trail hike);  Borealis Glacier & Borealis/Lucky Pass & North Klawatti Glacier & Klawatti Glacier & North Klawatti Notch & South Klawatti Saddle & Inspiration Glacier & Tepeh Gap & Inspirado Saddle & Eldorado Glacier & Eldo-Roush Notch (snow climb);  Eldorado Creek & Cascade River (trail hike & rock scramble)

Ending Point: Eldorado Creek Trailhead (Cascade River Road)

Campsites: Borealis Ridge Bench & North Klawatti Glacier Flats & South Klawatti Saddle

Summit: Tricouni Peak (ascent & descent via West Chute—Southwest Ridge)

Summit: Primus Peak (ascent & descent via East Slope)

Summit: Austera Peak (ascent & descent via South Slope—South Ridge)

Summit: Klawatti Peak (ascent & descent via South Face)

Sidetrip: Upper McAllister Glacier & Dorado Col (snow climb)

Summit: Dorado Needle (ascent & descent via Northeast Face—Northwest Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 22 miles traveled; 13,400 feet gained; 12,400 feet lost.

——————– Related Posts ——————–

Inspiration–Isolation Traverse + Primus Peak + Eldorado Peak + Isolation Peak + Snowfield Peak – July 2019

——————– Full Trip Report ——————–

Kevin and I joined Chris, Kathy, Stan, and Tim for the first four days of their seven-day traverse around the McAllister Creek drainage.  Their full McAllister Traverse began at the Thunder Creek Trailhead and ended at the Pyramid Lake Trailhead.  Our abbreviated trip began at the same place but ended at the Cascade River, and is usually referred to as the Inspiration Traverse.  I like this name because the route passes through terrain that continually inspires awe and amazement.

Day 1 – Thunder Creek TH to Borealis Ridge Bench:

We hiked 6.5 miles up Thunder Creek trail to McAllister Camp, where we located a crude path leading up the ridge toward the Borealis Glacier.  We slowly ascended to snowline and made camp at 5200 feet (7.3 hours from TH).  The weather was nicely cool and sprinkly for this strenuous leg, but it became cold in the evening, with a few snowflakes.

Day 2 – Borealis Ridge to North Klawatti Glacier + Tricouni Peak + Primus Peak:

We awoke late to swirling clouds and fog.  From camp, we climbed up the ridge to the Borealis Glacier and on up to Borealis (Lucky) Pass.

While Kathy waited, the rest of us grabbed summit packs and climbed Tricouni Peak via a nice snow chute.

After returning to Borealis Pass, we climbed Primus Peak via the easy east slope.  Unfortunately, a heavy fog prevented any viewing from the summits.

We re-shouldered packs and continued southward around a basin and up through an icefall to a huge flat area at 7500 feet on the North Klawatti Glacier.  This provided a good spot for Camp 2 (8.8 hours from Camp 1).

Near camp, we stumbled across a long PVC pipe that extends down 30 feet or more into the glacier, apparently for someone’s glacial research project.

Day 3 – North Klawatti Glacier to Inspiration Glacier + Austera Peak + Klawatti Peak:

We awoke to mostly sunny skies, but clouds and fog intermittently moved through.  Our route contoured around a ridge to Klawatti Glacier and ascended to 7800 feet.

While Kathy waited in fog, the rest of us dropped packs and climbed Austera Peak.

This involved a dicey traverse along a snowy ridge between the false and main summit blocks, followed by a difficult chimney that was coated with rime and verglas on both sides. Chris managed to lead this and belay us all up to the airy summit.

By now, the skies had cleared completely.  I would have to say that the view from this summit is the most spectacularly alpine scene I’ve ever witnessed!  The Tepeh Towers and countless other ridges, towers, spires piercing the glacial cap looked remarkably like the photos of the French Alps in Gaston Rebufat’s uber-classic book On Ice and Snow and Rock.

After descending (with one rappel), we contoured over to the Inspiration Glacier and established Camp 3 at a rock outcrop on the southern side of Klawatti Peak (6.2 hours from Camp 2).  While Tim and Kathy played Yahtzee in camp, Chris, Kevin, Stan and I climbed Klawatti Peak via the south face.  I led a short Class 4-5 rock pitch to clear the bergschrund and then Chris led several hundred feet of puckerish 40- to 55-degree snow.

Fog had moved in by the time we topped out, so we quickly began the white-knuckle descent, which included one rappel over the schrund.  Back in camp, the weather turned cold and windy.

Day 4 – Inspiration Glacier to Eldorado Creek TH + Dorado Needle:

We awoke to beautifully clear skies above us and valley fog below.  The scenery was awesome, with Logan, Goode, Buckner, Forbidden, Agnes, Joberg, and Eldorado all basking in morning sun.

After breakfast, we traversed over to the Inspiration/McAllister Col, where Kevin and I dropped packs while the rest descended toward Dorado Col.  We soon joined them there, armed with summit packs, then headed out with Chris, Stan, and Tim to climb Dorado Needle.

From below, the Needle’s steep, snow-plastered east face looked pretty intimidating!  Chris led up a shorter snow slope just north of the main face, then continued up snowy/icy Class 5 rock (including the wildly exposed and somewhat painful cheval ridge) to the small summit.

We were nearly speechless due to the amazing views—and the anxiety of needing to “re-cheval” our ascent route.  However, our groins were saved further torture, thanks to two double-rope rappels from the summit horn, and soon we rejoined Kathy for lunch at Dorado Col.

Following lunch, Kevin and I bade the others goodbye and parted company.  They continued down Marble Creek, whereas we re-ascended to our packs and began traversing across the huge Inspiration Glacier to the “Inspirado Saddle” at 7500 feet.  About 5500 feet below, my awaiting vehicle held fresh cotton socks and shirt, comfy shoes, and a way home.  We thought about those things a lot on the long, steep descent down Eldorado Creek.

After finally reaching the valley bottom and crossing the Cascade River on a log, Kevin and I strolled over to the parking lot (10.7 hours from Camp 3).  Suddenly, our end-of-trip joy was replaced with shock when we saw that my vehicle had been vandalized and burglarized!!  Three windows were completely busted out, and glass shards were littered throughout the interior!  To make matters worse, all of my fresh clothes and shoes were gone!  On a nice note, a park ranger had covered the window openings with plastic to keep rain out.

Kevin and I shoveled out some of the broken glass and headed home, feeling both saddened and angered by this display of senseless destruction.  But I kept reminding myself that although others could steal our gear, they could never steal our memories of a most incredible four days in the North Cascades.

————– Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) —————