June 8, 2003

Foggy Peak Day Climb

Monte Cristo Townsite
Glacier Basin
Foggy Peak (6810′)

——————– Trip Report Summary ——————–

Region: North-Central Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Monte Cristo Mountains

Area: Henry M. Jackson Wilderness

Starting & Ending Point: Glacier Basin Trailhead at Monte Cristo Townsite (Monte Cristo Road)

Way Points: Glacier Creek & Lower Glacier Basin & Ida Creek slope (trail hike & off-trail hike & snow climb)

Summit: Foggy Peak (ascent & descent via South Face—West Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 8 miles traveled; 4000 feet gained & lost; 5.2 hours up; 3.8 hours down.

——————– Full Trip Report ——————–

Intending to amend our previous blunder on Addison Ridge, Kevin and I set out again for Foggy Peak.  This time, we had favorable (if not hot) weather and a foursome of strong partners:  Mike T, Steve F, Keihan, and Dane.  Plus, we had Mike’s key to the Monte Cristo Roadhead gate, which saved a little time, a moderate amount of energy, and a lot of bicycle-carrying logistics.

Even at 9:30am, the air had a summery warmth as we hiked up the Glacier Basin trail.  Kevin and I were surprised how much snow had melted in the intervening two weeks since our last foray.  Glacier Creek had breached the snow dam at several locations, but we crossed easily and then began clawing up through the still-remarkably steep forest.  Snowline appeared at 5000 feet, marking the start of our traverse over to Foggy.

Once directly below the summit (now easily identified through the fog-less air), we started climbing upward until the snow gave way to wet, down-sloping rock.  The mountain suddenly looked much more imposing from this vantage!  Loose rocks were dislodged periodically, despite everybody’s best efforts, and Mike took a painful hit on his hand and leg.  Most of us had wisely donned helmets long before this.

Carefully working our way up exposed zig-zag ledges and heathery benches, we finally reached the skyline notch, from which the serious climbing supposedly began.  This turned out to be delightful Class 3-4 scrambling on excellent rock.

Upon reaching the summit (5.2 hours from TH), the narrow summit crest gave our sextet plenty of room to spread out and enjoy views.

Not finding a summit register, we left a “Kodak special” (film canister) in the summit cairn.  The air was pleasantly warm, but building clouds to the west and a general apprehension about the tedious descent prodded us off the crest much sooner than we wanted.

Keihan did an admirable job of coaching several of us over the tricky downclimbing moves and then leading everyone down the long, tortuous series of ledges and benches.  We didn’t even use the ropes and rock gear that we’d carried up, but simply having the gear gave us some comfort.

Once off the rock, a fun glissade, a short traverse, and an unpleasant plunge down (yup) remarkably steep forest left us basking in the afternoon sun next to Glacier Creek.  I then suddenly realized that the day’s camaraderie alone had turned May’s blunder into June’s blessing!

————- Photo Gallery (click to enlarge) ———————