Trip Date: May 28-29, 2006
Cape Horn Climbing Trip
Chatter Creek Pass
Edna Meadows
Lake Edna
Edna Pass
Cape Horn (7316 ft)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Central Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Chiwaukum Mountains
Area: Alpine Lakes Wilderness
Starting & Ending Point: Chatter Creek Trailhead on Upper Icicle Creek Road (Elev. 2600 feet)
Way Points: Chatter Creek & Chatter Creek Pass & Edna Meadows (trail hike & snow hike)
Campsite: Edna Meadows (Elev. 6500 feet)
Sidetrip: Lake Edna & Edna Pass (snow hike)
Summit: Cape Horn (snow climb via Northeast Ridge)
Approximate Stats: 12 miles traveled; 5900 feet gained & lost.
Full Trip Report
I did an overnight trip into the Chiwaukum Mountains with Steve and Suzanne. Progressively deteriorating weather prompted a last-minute change in our Memorial Day Weekend plans, resulting in this two-day climb of Cape Horn, a small but satisfying summit north of Grindstone Mountain.
Day 1: Trailhead to Edna Meadows
Starting from the Icicle Road, we backpacked up Chatter Creek (continuous snowpack above 5000 feet) and over Chatter Creek Pass. The weather transitioned from warm and sunny to cold and cloudy by late afternoon. Upon encountering a frigid gale below Lake Edna, we made camp on a relatively sheltered bench at 6500 feet in Edna Meadows overlooking Index Creek.
- Campsite At Edna Meadows
Day 2: Cape Horn Summit Climb + Exit
It spit snow and rain during the night, but we awoke to mostly blue skies and headed up to Edna Pass.
- Suzanne Nearing Edna Pass
Our original plan called for traversing over to Snowgrass Mountain. However, a thick layer of fresh, heavy snow, combined with fears of considerable sun-softening by afternoon, made this plan seem imprudent. As a consolation prize, we tucked in nearby Cape Horn, which had a fairly safe ridge route to its summit (2.5 hours RT from camp).
- Climbing Up Cape Horn
- Steve, Suzanne, and Jim On Summit
Our decision to abbreviate the trip was affirmed several times over by the numerous snow sloughs (some pretty large) and the run-away cornice that we observed while heading back to Chatter Creek Pass. It appears that there is a whole bunch of unconsolidated snow (from last week’s storms) to come down before things stabilize in the mountains.
- Brigham Spires From Edna Pass
Given the generally bad weather over the weekend, we felt fortunate to have plenty of sun and great views. A fun trip!
Route Map
- Cape Horn Route Map
Photo Gallery
Click to enlarge…
