Trip Date: July 28-31, 2011

MID-SUMMER OUTING NO. 9:  PICKET RANGE

Whatcom Peak Climbing Trip & Whatcom Peak Circuit:  Easy Ridge to Perfect Pass to Whatcom Pass

Hannegan Pass
Chilliwack River Ford
Easy Ridge Saddle
Easy Peak (6613’)
Perfect Impasse (erroneously called “Imperfect Impasse” in some references)
Perfect Pass
Whatcom Peak (7574’)
Whatcom Pass
Chilliwack River Cablecar

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Picket Range

Area: North Cascades National Park

Starting & Ending Point: Hannegan Trailhead at end of Ruth Creek Road #32 (Elev. 3100 feet)

Way Points: Ruth Creek & Hannegan Pass & Copper Creek & Chilliwack River & Easy Saddle & Easy Peak summit & Perfect Impasse & Perfect Pass & Whatcom Arm & Whatcom Pass & Brush Creek & Chilliwack Trail Junction & Chilliwack River Cablecar & U.S. Cabin Camp & Hannegan Pass & Ruth Creek (hike & climb)

Campsites: Easy Saddle & Perfect Pass & U.S. Cabin Camp

Summit: Easy Peak (snow climb via South Ridge; descent via North Ridge)

Summit: Whatcom Peak (snow climb & rock scramble via South Slope—West Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 37 miles traveled; 13,700 feet gained & lost.

Related Posts

Picket Traverse + Whatcom Peak + Elephant Butte – June 2018

Easy Ridge Lookout + Easy Peak via Northwest Ridge – July 2000

Easy Peak via Northwest Ridge – September 6, 1999

Full Trip Report

This was Year 9 for the Mid-Summer Climbing Trip that I’ve been doing with a group of guys comprising a mixture of usual and unusual suspects. Eagerly signing on for a loop around Whatcom Peak in the Picket Range were Eric, Jon, Ryan, Todd, Adam, and Craig. Overall, we had excellent conditions for alpine travel, very few mosquitoes, and weather that was very good when we most needed it to be. Group camaraderie and hijinks were running as high as the creeks.

Day 1: Trailhead to Easy Saddle

We left the Hannegan Trailhead in sunny weather and backpacked over Hannegan Pass and down to the Chilliwack River (5.5 hours from TH). After passing numerous full-flowing streams along the way, it was a pleasant surprise to find the river at a typical mid-summer level. We forded the thigh-deep water, quickly located the abandoned trail on the opposite shore, and then ground out the final 2600 feet to a broad saddle on Easy Ridge (8.6 hours from TH).

By early evening, we had established a comfortable campsite at a cluster of bare spots on the snowy crest.

Based on ranger information, we knew that a party of three climbers bound for Phantom Peak was one day ahead of us, and although we never spotted them, we occasionally saw evidence (footsteps, a bandana, a hanging food bag, etc.) of their passage.  Naturally, they became known as the “phantom climbers.”

Day 2: Easy Saddle to Perfect Pass + Whatcom Peak

The day started out with a low cloud ceiling, and we found ourselves ascending into fog as we traversed over 6613-foot Easy Peak. This summit has remnants of an old radio antenna, which seems to be frequently mistaken for the old Easy Ridge Lookout (the lookout was actually located 3 miles to the north).  The antenna now provides an excellent barstool.

After continuing along the crest for another ¾ mile, we began a descending traverse just as the weather cleared up. The solid snow cover made for easy travel, and we reached the “Perfect Impasse” at 5200 feet by lunchtime (4.5 hours from saddle).

This notorious geomorphic feature lived up to its intimidating reputation: the deep moats on each side and the down-sloping slabs on the far side were more than we wanted to tangle with, so we quickly decided to drop below it—as many other parties have done.

Our descent to 4400 feet was rapid and pleasant, but our re-ascent through the far cliff band was slowed by patchy brush and a sketchy Class 4 rock face.

We eventually surmounted this face with the aid of a belay rope and then continued upward to 6200-foot Perfect Pass (8.4 hours from Camp 1). Our group made camp on a rock knoll north of the pass.  The phantom climbers were camped on a rock knoll immediately south of the pass, and we learned that their Phantom Peak bid had been thwarted by the morning fog and drizzle. As such, they were headed out the next morning.

Camp 2 put us closely below our objective: Whatcom Peak. We threw together summit packs and headed up in the late afternoon.

The ascent featured a long, straightforward snowfield that ended with a very exposed but enjoyable Class 3 scramble along the south ridge crest to a foggy summit (0.9 hours from Camp 2).

The weather was in a tumultuous transition, as indicated by the racing and nosediving of surrounding clouds. Sure enough, by dinnertime the sky had completely cleared to reveal the vast whiteness of Mt. Challenger across the alpine dale. Perfect Pass was living up to its name!

Day 3: Perfect Pass to Whatcom Pass to U.S. Cabin Camp

We awoke to cloudless skies, mild temperatures, and beautiful alpenglow on the Challenger Glacier.

The phantom climbers passed through our camp as we ate breakfast, and their leader (Mario) indicated that they had decided to exit via Whatcom Pass rather than retrace their route down and around the impasse. We departed about 2 hours later (nobody pulls off a “country-club start” like we do!) and benefitted from their footsteps in our traverse around Whatcom Peak.

The climbing books consistently warn of treacherous conditions on this traverse after mid-summer, but as it turned out, the Whatcom Glacier was in splendid condition and required very little monkey business to negotiate. We reached Whatcom Pass by lunchtime (3.2 hours from Camp 2).

We were soon heading down-trail toward the Chilliwack River. Although the trail has received virtually no maintenance this year, we had little trouble following it down to the river.The cable car provided a delightful break in an otherwise routine hike, and a subsequent bear sighting added to the adventure.

There were also two areas where the trail has been obliterated by avalanche debris that is completely coated with fir needles—very odd—as well as an impressive example of beaver engineering.

We pulled into U.S. Cabin Camp in early evening (8.8 hours from Camp 2) and splashed off trail grime in the frigid Chilliwack River before a campfire dinner.

Day 4: U.S. Cabin Camp to Trailhead

After two days of summery weather, I was dismayed to be awaken by raindrops on my face at 2:45am. Where did THIS come from? Fortunately, the rain never amounted to more than occasional showers all day, and the cool overcast weather was actually quite welcome during our hike back over Hannegan Pass.

We passed a trio of park rangers who had been on trail patrol and light brush-clearing duty. They told us that the Chilliwack Trail probably won’t see much maintenance this year, due to the late-melting snowpack. Thus far, this has been a year better suited to alpine climbing than backpacking. We reached the Hannegan Pass TH in mid-afternoon (5.4 hours from Camp 3) and capped off our excellent alpine-and-trail trip with dinner at Milano’s in Glacier.

Photo Gallery

Click to enlarge…