Two pointed peaks of Sluiskin Mountain stand above a forest slope
The Sluiskin Chief (left) and Sluiskin Squaw (right) from Windy Gap

Sluiskin Mtn: The Squaw via Carbon River—Windy Gap—North Couloir—East Face (Mount Rainier Massif, WA)

Trip Date: September 24, 2006

Sluiskin Squaw Day Climb

Carbon River
Windy Gap
Sluiskin Saddle
Sluiskin Mountain: The Squaw
aka The Sluiskin Squaw (~7010′)

Trip Report Summary

Region: Southern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Mt. Rainier Massif

Area: Mt. Rainier National Park

Starting & Ending Point: Carbon River Trailhead at Ipsut Creek Campground at end of Carbon River Road (Elev. 2350 feet)

Way Points: Carbon River & Yellowstone Cliffs Camp & Windy Gap & Van Horn Basin & Sluiskin Saddle (trail hike & rock scramble)

Summit: The Sluiskin Squaw (rock scramble via East Slope—East Face)

Approximate Stats: 16 miles traveled; 5800 feet gained & lost; 5.5 hours up; 3.8 hours down.

Northern Loop Trail Circuit & Sluiskin Mountain: The Chief – September 2022

Sluiskin Mountain: The Chief via West Slope—North Ridge – September 2005

Full Trip Report

Carolyn and I headed down to Mt. Rainier National Park to climb the Sluiskin Squaw on a sunny Sunday morning. Ever since climbing the Sluiskin Chief last autumn, I had looked forward to returning to this beautiful area for the purpose of climbing the nearby Squaw. We had delectable weather…once again.

Starting at Ipsut Creek Campground, we hiked up the Carbon River, crossed on a series of temporary/expendible bridges, then continued up the Northern Loop Trail to Windy Gap (2.7 hours from TH).

Crossing Carbon River

We promptly wasted a half hour trying to contour from the gap over toward the mountain but got cliffed out.

The Chief and The Squaw From Windy Gap

Eventually, we just dropped into Van Horn Basin and ascended heather, talus, and icky scree to Sluiskin Saddle between The Chief and The Squaw.

Carolyn Climbing The Sluiskin Squaw

Several hundred feet of pleasant Class 2-3 scrambling got us to the summit in early afternoon (5.5 hours from TH).

Mt Rainier and Jim
Carolyn On The Sluiskin Squaw Summit

While on The Chief last year, I had estimated The Squaw to be only 10 or 15 feet lower (implying that the map is incorrect).  I think 7010 feet is a reasonably conservative estimate for the true summit elevation.  I didn’t take the time for a back-sighting this year, but I’d still stick with that estimate.  Maybe I’ll have to come back one more time with a hand-transit—probably on some equally gorgeous fall day.

The Chief From The Squaw

We carefully retraced our up-route back to Windy Gap, then hustled down the trail to Ipsut Campground to end a fine day (3.8 hours from summit).

Route Map

Sluiskin Squaw Route Map

Click to enlarge…