Trip Date: September 11-13, 2009
Mt. Triumph Climbing Trip
Trapper’s Pass
Thornton Lakes
Thornton Pass
Mount Triumph (7270’)
Trip Report Summary
Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades
Sub-Region: Lower Skagit Mountains
Area: North Cascades National Park
Starting & Ending Point: Thornton Lakes Trailhead at end of Thornton Creek Road (Elev. 2500 feet)
Way Points: Thornton Creek & Trappers Pass & Lower Thornton Lake & Thornton Meadows & Thornton Ridge Knob (trail hike & bushwhack & rock scramble)
Campsite: Thornton Ridge Knob (Elev. 6100 feet)
Sidetrip: Thornton Pass & Triumph Creek slope (off-trail hike & rock scramble)
Summit: Mt. Triumph (rock scramble & rock climb via West Face—South Shoulder—Southeast Face)
Approximate Stats: 17 miles traveled; 6300 feet gained & lost.
Related Posts
Thornton Peak via Thornton Lakes—Thornton Pass—Southeast Face – July 2009
Mt. Despair via Thornton Pass—Triumph Pass—Southeast Face – July 2006
Full Trip Report
This past weekend, I headed off to Mt. Triumph with Fay, Kevin W, Kevin K, and Eileen. Several of us had put this peak at the very top of our wanna-do lists for the past couple years. As it turned out, the peak and the weather were stellar.
Day 1: Trailhead to Thornton Ridge Knob
On Friday, we hiked up to Lower Thornton Lake, crossed the outlet, and continued up a scratch path to Thornton Ridge. Camp was established at a familiar bivy site on a rocky knob closely south of Thornton Pass (6.9 hours from TH). Because there was no water on the crest this late in the season, we had to drop 100 feet to collect meltwater from some residual snow patches. The night was remarkably warm and calm—like an early August night but without any bugs.
- Group at Bivy Site
Day 2: Mt. Triumph Summit Climb
On Saturday, we awoke at first light and were moving shortly before 8:00am. We traversed to Thornton Pass, crossed to the west, and then made a gently descending traverse below the western rampart of Thornton Peak and “The Great Prow” of Mt. Triumph. After crossing two stream channels, we reached the imposing southwest ridge of Mt Triumph.
- Traversing under The Great Prow
A surprisingly easy heather slope led us up to a broad talus shoulder. From there we angled up rock and heather benches on or left of the “Great White Slabs,” which cascade dramatically down the west face.
- Scrambling up the Great White Slabs
Some dicey Class 4 rock and heather ended on a huge southeast-slanting ramp. We ascended this ramp to the south shoulder/ledge, which truncates the breathtakingly tall Great Prow.
- Summit Pyramid of Mt Triumph from the South Shoulder/Ledge
Here, we all tied into a double-length rope and climbed the southeast gully/slot feature (Class 5, poor rock, minimal protection) to reach a narrow crest, then scrambled 50 feet to the summit (5.4 hours from camp).
- Eileen on summit ridge crest
The excellent weather and views demanded a full hour on top, during which time Fay revealed a little secret: today was her 67th birthday! As climbers, we could not imagine any way to surpass this peak for a birthday climb. Well, ok, getting off alive would certainly be one way.
- Kevin W, Kevin K, Eileen, and Fay on summit
We made one double-rope rappel and another single-rope rappel to reach the south shoulder/ledge.
- Rappelling off the summit pyramid
Farther down the slanting ramp, we made three double-rope rappels to reach the base of the Great White Slabs.
- Rappelling to the Great White Slabs
Camp welcomed us just before dark (5.6 hours from summit), and we partied that night like it was 1999. Kevin W made raspberry crumble. Fay even cut loose and put Schnapps in her tea!
- Sunset on stardust
Day 3: Thornton Ridge Knob to Trailhead
On Sunday, we descended to Lower Thornton Lake for a cold soak, then hiked out to the trailhead (6.0 hours from camp) under a hot sun. It was a spectacular weekend on an even more spectacular mountain!
Photo Gallery
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