Massive glaciated Mt Prophet stands above a green forest in North Cascades National Park
Mount Prophet viewed from Highway 20 pullout above Ross Lake

Mt Prophet via Thirtynine Mile Creek—South Ridge—Southeast Ridge (Prophet Range, WA)

Trip Date: July 16-17, 2011

Mt. Prophet Climbing Trip & High Camp

Ross Lake
Big Beaver Landing
Thirtynine Mile Creek
Mount Prophet (7640’+) 

Trip Report Summary

Region: Northwestern Washington Cascades

Sub-Region: Prophet Range

Area: North Cascades National Park

Starting & Ending Point: Ross Dam Trailhead on Highway 20 (Elev. 2150 feet)

Way Points: Ross Lake Landing (trail hike);  Ross Lake & Big Beaver Landing (boat ride);  Big Beaver Creek & Thirtynine Mile Creek & Thirtynine Mile Ridge & Point 5078 & Point 6071 & South Prophet Ridge (trail hike & off-trail hike & bushwhack & rock scramble & snow climb)

Campsite: South Prophet Ridge (Elev. 6700 feet)

Summit: Mt. Prophet (snow climb & rock scramble via South Ridge—Southeast Ridge)

Approximate Stats: 18 miles traveled; 7200 feet gained and lost.

Full Trip Report

Mt. Prophet is the highest peak of a small subrange enclosed by Big Beaver Creek, Little Beaver Creek, and Ross Lake within the northwestern Cascades. It appears as a cluster of high, attractive peaks and scalloped ridges when viewed from one of the scenic pullouts on Highway 20. Kevin K and I decided to gamble on a deteriorating weather forecast last weekend and make a summit attempt. The weathermen were unanimously predicting doom and gloom for us, but I was secretly counting on riding the wake of Kevin’s enormous karma bank.

Day 1: Ross Dam Trailhead to Big Beaver Landing to Mt Prophet

We rode the water taxi to Big Beaver Landing on Saturday morning and hiked 5 miles up Big Beaver Trail. Just past Thirtynine Mile Creek, we plunged into the forest and headed northerly alongside the creek. After a few hundred yards of typical valley-bottom brush, we worked our way onto a relatively brush-free rib located closely right (east) of a minor gully. This rib became more distinct and more open with elevation.

We saw traces of old boot tread along the way, but the route-finding was always fairly easy. In contrast to the horrible bushwhack I had been expecting, this cross-country route was—dare I say—almost pleasant by Cascade standards. Even the cool, overcast weather was greatly appreciated on this south-facing slope, but the hungry mosquitoes kept things from getting truly pleasant.

By the time we reached snowline at 5000 feet, heavy gray clouds were starting to descend on the mountain, and rain showers intermittently passed through. We got a short view of the upper ridges and rocky points above 5472-foot Thirtynine Mile (“Firn”) Lake just before they were swallowed by fog; after that, visibility was down to 50 yards or so for the next several hours.

We eventually gained a 6600-foot saddle on the south ridge of Mt. Prophet, then generally followed the crest up and over Points 7361 and 7547. The crestlines offered straightforward Class 1-2 travel, which was quite enjoyable under the circumstances.

mountain climber booting up long snow slope in morning fog on Mt Prophet in North Cascades National Park
Ascending To Saddle 6600
mountain climber assessing the snow and dirt covered south ridge of Mt Prophet in North Cascades National Park
Kevin On South Ridge Of Mt Prophet

The false summit and true summit had some steeper Class 3 rock, but the exposure was never bad. We topped out in the late afternoon (8.8 hours + 6500 feet from Big Beaver Landing). There was a summit cairn but no register, so I left a makeshift register consisting of a Nuun bottle (we thought this appropriate for Mt. Prophet).

mountain climber in the fog stands next to the rocky summit of Mt Prophet in North Cascades National Park with snow fields in the background
Kevin On Mt Prophet Summit

The weather was cold and windy, with rain sprinkles, and the views were non-existent. This was especially disappointing because we’d hauled our full backpacks all the way in hopes of doing a summit bivouac. Given the horrible weather and the lack of any decent bivouac sites, however, we re-shouldered packs at 6:00pm and started retracing our up-route back along the ridge crest.

About an hour after leaving the summit, we stopped for a rest on a rocky knob at 6700 feet, and this is where Kevin’s good karma finally kicked in. The clouds and fog miraculously began to dissipate!

storm clouds dissipating over Jack Mountain in North Cascades National park with the shoulder of Mt Prophet in the foreground
Storm Clouds Dissipating Over Jack Mountain

We scouted around the vicinity and found a splendid bivouac site on small patch of ridge-crest greenery. Dinner and ever-improving views were enjoyed from our bivy sacks until nightfall, which was followed by a near-full moonrise.

mountain climbers bivy camp on the rocky shoulder of Mt Prophet with snowy mountains of North Cascades National Park in the background above valley fog
Bivy Site On Ridge Crest

Day 2: Mt Prophet to Big Beaver Landing to Ross Dam Trailhead

In the morning, we awoke to a sky of blue above and a sea of clouds below. The rising sun splashed across the cloudscape and protruding mountains as we ate breakfast. Kevin must have cashed in a ton of karma in exchange for this incredible visual presentation!

mountain climbers bivey camp on the shoulder of Mt Prophet with the mountains of North Cascades National Park in the distancce above valley fog
High Bivy Site
morning light on the Southern Picket Range in North Cascades National Parl as seen from the ridge of Mt Prophet
Southern Pickets
morning light on the Northern Picket Range in North Cascades National Park above valley fog as seen from climbers camp on Mt Prophet
Northern Pickets
distant view of the American Chilliwack Mountains as seen from mountain climbers camp on the ridge of Mt Prophet in North Cascades National Park
American Chilliwack Mountains From Camp
Snowfield Peak and Colonical Peak rise above valley fog in the distance as seen from climbers camp on the shoulder of Mt Prophet in North Cascades National Park
Colonial Peak and Snowfield Peak

We reluctantly packed up and headed down at 7:30am. Our descent was reasonably quick and uneventful, and the afternoon rain showers held off until we reached the trail.

mountain climber plunge stepping down snow field on Mt Prophet in North Cascades National Park with distant mountain views and valley fog
Descending Into Clouds

Two hours later, we found ourselves sprawled across the dock at Big Beaver Landing (5.9 hours from camp) awaiting the water taxi—and the next rainstorm. Our good-weather window had been brief but spectacular.

Click to enlarge…